"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover". Mark Twain

Monday, December 03, 2007

A taste of Europe

After a 14 months and 77,000 kilometres motorcycle ride throughout North America it was time for a change of venue. My good friend and running buddy Gerry, an Irishman who has hiked extensively throughout Europe suggested the Tour de Mont Blanc. A great idea it was. So we would fly to Paris then travel by rail to the south of France to the town of Chamonix in the Alps. We had gone there to hike one of the classic mountain walks of Europe the Tour de Mont Blanc. This hike circles the highest mountain in western Europe covering a distance of roughly 165Km with 10Km of ascent. It would take us 9 days to complete this walk through parts of France, Italy and Switzerland. This hike would be dominated throughout by spectacular views of the highest peaks in the Alps including Mont Blanc itself (4,807m/15,767ft). Lodging and meals were enjoyed in mountain refuges and villages along the route.

Following the Tour de Mont Blanc we would travel to Koblanz Germany, Luxembourg and Paris.




Mont Blanc the Monarch of the Alps at 4807 metres (15,771 feet). This mountain range is say to be one of the most spectacular areas in the alps. The narrow peak on this mountain top is know as the Aiguille du Midi..This photo was take from the train on our short ride from Chomonix to village of Les Houches where we would commence our hike.



Day 1 our walk would take us from the village of Les Houches to the village of Les Contamines. My hiking buddy Gerry leads the way along the narrow path as the Glacier de Bionnassay coax us onward.



The narrow footpath disappears within the vegetation of this flowery meadow as we continue our ascent towards this day's first mountain pass – Col de Tricot


The Dome de Miage as viewed from the Refuge de Miage – we arrived at this site following a very steep decent via a zigzag path along the ridge from Col de Tricot.


More of the Dome de Miage.


This unique mountain hotel "la clef des champs" in the village of Les Contamines would provide us with great food and accommodations following our first day of hiking.


Day 2 – This day's hike would take us from the village of Les Contamines to the village of Les Chapieux a distance of 18 KM with a height gain of 1316 metres and descent of 929 metres. This view along the way is the lower region of the Val de Montjoie.



The ascent continues into upper Val de Montjoie the building in the photo is the Refuge de Balme a mountain lodge.


Looking back from where we've come as viewed from this day's first mountain pass the Col du Bonhomme.


Another view of our ascent from the Val de Montjoie to the Col du Bonhomme. A difficult morning walk this has been.



This reservoir high in the French Alps would supply a Hydro Generation Station somewhere in the valley below.


The view from the second mountain pass on day 2 - Col de la Croix du Bonhomme. It's all down hill from here into the Vallee de Chapieux. One would assume that descents would provide a welcome relief to the hiker but that is not the case. The leg muscle group change but the energy demand remains constant.


An abandoned mountain hut sit in the valley near the community of Les Chapieux. We would spend the night in this community at the Auberge de la Nova a basic mountain hostel where we share sleeping accommodations in a large dorm.


Day 3 – from Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta a relative easy hike of 15 KM a height gain of 1004 metres. On this day we would walk out of France and into Italy. The walk out of the community of Les Chapieux would follow this river it's flow the discharge from the reservoir Barrage de Seloge in the mountains above.


La Vallee des Glaciers - note the refuge mountain lodge in the centre of the photo.



More of La Vallee des Glaciers.


This isolated mountain pass Col de la Seigne elevation 2516 metres is the border crossing from France into Italy. No irrational border officials were found at this location.


From this mountain pass the Col de la Seigne the path descends into the Val Veni. Our guide book stated that on a clear day we would be rewarded with fantastic views of Mont Blanc’s huge Italian face rising above the Glacier de Miages however on this day the weather was against us. An afternoon thunder storm was forecasted for this region and the clouds have set-in.


The Refuge Elisabetta perched high on a ledge below the Glacier d'Estellette. This mountain lodge would provide shelter from the afternoon thunder storm and over night rain.




Day 4 - Refuge Elisabetta to the Town of Courmayeur 18KM –This photo take from the Refuge Elisabetta into the lower Vallon de la Lee Blanche.


Just walking in the rain. The overnight rain would continued throughout the day forcing us to abandon the mountain route and hike into Courmayeur through the valley. Thanks Daryl for providing the Gortex rain gear.


A very pleasant valley walk in the rain to the Town of Courmayeur . We would find overnight lodging in a comfortable hotel in this town.


Day 5 - Courmayeur to the Rifugo Bonatti Mountain Lodge. The tour de Mont Blanc is routed through the community of Courmayeur a left turn is required at this location and up the narrow street.


I do like this style of architecture –This home is located in the Town of Courmayeur Italy.


The entrance to the Mont Blanc tunnel. A major alpine transportation route which links Courmayeur, Italy to Chamonix, France. In March 1999 a truck carrying flour and margarine caught on fire in this tunnel killing 39 people.


The Italian Alps near the Rifugio Bonatti.


The view through the open window of our room at the mountain lodge – Rifugio Bonatti.


The Italian mountain lodge – Rifugio Bonatti where we would terminate day 5. Any products brought into this lodge arrives by helicopter or on horseback.


A sea of late afternoon clouds engulf Mont Blanc – as viewed from the Rifugio Bonatti, Italy.


Early morning sunshine brighten-up the glacier on Mont Blanc – as viewed from Rifugio Bonatti, Italy.


Day 6 – From Rifugio Bonatti, Italy to La Fouly, Switzerland – 20 KM. We are rewarded with spectacular views of the Italian Alps as we make our way to the Swiss border.


More of the Italian Alps.


Direction sign post – these were located in Switzerland and are typical of those found along the Tour de Mont Blanc. On occasion the sign post would indicate the walking time to the destination.


A well traveled path through a Swiss forest.


It was interesting to walk out of the mountains and onto these country roads – this one was in Val Ferret near the village of Issert, Switzerland.


Day 7 – From La Fouly to Col de la Forclaz , Switzerland – Distance 31 KM – The very scenic town of Champex, Switzerland. We stopped in this community for a very tasty mid-day meal.


On occasion our well groomed hiking trail turn into this stuff – fortunately it was not for extended distances.


A well deserved break to admire the view of the Rhone Valley and the Bernese Alps of Switzerland.


The clanging of cow bells can be heard throughout the mountains of Switzerland. Although the bell ringing adds to the romance of the hike one can not help but think these bells must drive these poor cattle mad for every move made is followed by a loud clang.


Day 8 – From Col de la Forclaz, Switzerland to Tre-le-Champ, France - Distance 13 KM – height gain 1170 metres. The moon sit above these mountain peaks near the community of Trent, Switzerland.


A long hard climb up this zigzag path to the next mountain pass the Col de Balme.


The Refuge du Col de Balme - This run-down mountain lodge is positioned on the border between Switzerland and France. A great location to rest and enjoy the spectacular views – There were no paranoid border guard in this region..


Mont Blanc in all it's grander as viewed from the Refuge du Col de Balme.


This is ski country but today we'll walk this path which takes us back into France as viewed from the Col de Balme.


The narrow path on the summit of L'Aiguillette des Posettes. It's downhill from here to the Town of Tre-le-Champ.


The view across the valley from the summit of L'Aiguillette des Posettes. The zigzag pattern on the mountain slope will be part of our next morning ascent.



Day 9 – From Tre-le-Champ to Chamonix – Distance 15KM - This view is along a section of the route known as Grand Balcon Sud


More views from the Grand Balcon Sud.


A zoom lens would have been great to capture this ibex in it's classic pose. We were extremely fortunate to come-across these animals. Once hunted to extinction in the first half of the 19th century then re-introduced in the 1920's their population has grown to 15,000.


Our walk continues into the valley up into the clouds and onward towards La Flegere. Note the rock wall in the photo is used to provide avalanche control for the valley below.


The final hours of our hike and yet views have remained spectacular.


The final hours of our hike and yet views have remained spectacular.


Ladders embedded in the rock face were utilized to progress above this ledge.


A final view of Mont Blanc as viewed from an adjacent mountain Le Brevent. From this location we would ride a cable-car down to the Chamonix and terminate this amazing walk through the Alps.


The Town of Chamonix, France where we would remain for 3 days following our hike. A great place to simply kick-back and enjoy the surrounding's. It is a very touristy community – a center for anything pertaining to the mountains – hiking, mountaineering, skiing and the list goes on.


Following the Tour de Mont Blanc we would travel to Koblanz, Germany to visit with my hiking buddy Gerry's niece Christina and her friend Chris. This community of 106,000 is located on the banks of the Moselle River where it intersects with the Rhine River.


A boat tour on the Rhine River provided an opportunity for a closer view of the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress high above the river.


The River Rhine is one of the world's great shipping arteries and one of the most important rivers in Europe with 1320 kilometres of navigable water from the North Sea to Switzerland.



I was impressed with the large number of barges carry bulk cargo up and down of the Rhine.



This is the location where the Moselle River discharges into the Rhine River. The monument of Emperor William I is the largest I have ever see.


A small German Community along the Rhine River



Burg Eltz is a 12 century castle nestled in the hills above the Moselle River between Koblanz and Trier, Germany.


We would travel by rail from Koblaz, Germany to the city of Luxembourg. The city centre with it's narrow lanes, many squares and sidewalk cafes provided a good location for a day stop-over.



The country of Luxembourg has a population of 0.5 million. It has 3 official languages Letzeburgesch the national language German and French. It's booming economic is structured mainly in banking, insurance and the steel industry while agriculture and wine production are also important.


We would travel from Luxembourg to Paris on board this TGV (train à grande vitesse) high speed train. The TGV network centred in Paris has expanded to connect cities across France and in adjacent countries. A modifies version of this train has set a record for the fastest wheeled train having reached speeds of 574.8 km/hr (357mph). These standard TGV also holds the world's highest average speed for regular passenger service traveling up to 320 km/hr (200mph) in commercial use. These units are manufactured primarily by Alstom along with it's Canadian subcontractor Bombardier.


Tourist enjoy a boat ride on the River Seine in France's capital city Paris.


Notre Dame de Paris is widely considered one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture.


Sidewalk vendors sell their goods along a busy street on the banks of the River Seine.


Capturing the artist capturing the art.


The Arc de Triomphe is located at the western end of the Champs-Elysees which the French consider La plus belle avenue du monde – I think that would be open for debate.



One of the most recognizable structures in the world. Paris is the most popular tourist destination in the world with over 30 million foreign visitors per year.