The North

My stay in Edmonton was most enjoyable special thanks to Steve and Patty for being very good host and sharing their beautiful home. I departed that provincial capital city on Monday July 24th and set out for the Yukon. It would be a three day ride through Alberta and Northern BC before I would cross it's border into the community of Watson Lake. This remote stretch of BC is basically wilderness except for the communities of Dawson Creek, Fort St. John and Fort Nelson. Logging and Oil / Gas are the principal resources of these vibrant remote communities..

There are plenty of bikers up here. On a rainy Tuesday afternoon I stopped for fuel (one must be extremely conscious of their fuel level because filling opportunities are infrequent) there I encountered two riders. Mike from Spokane who was riding a Honda African Twin and Bob a Texan was riding an R-1200-GS – it was almost identical to my bike - the same colour -the Jesse boxes – a 2005 model also heavily loaded. It was fun to ride with these guys for a few hours to my destination in Fort Nelson where I was fortunate to locate one of the last remaining rooms - At last shelter from the rain.

The rain continued through the night and into the morning. I contemplated keeping the motel room for an additional day but I opted to suit-up and ride out-of-town through the rain. It turned out to be one of the best decisions I made in sometime. Because on this day I experienced an awesome adventure – I seen some amazing wildlife along the route. This is how the adventure unfolded. The rain continuously off and on along this final 550 KM of wilderness through Northern BC. I first encountered signage along the route warning of caribou on the road.. Within 10KM I was treated to my first encounter with these animals. There were three of them on the highway. I came to a stop and admired them from a distance. They didn't move so I proceeded slowly towards them. I came within three or four metres before they walk off the road and into the bush. That was great I thought but I should have taken a photo.. Within five KM I encountered five more caribou. This time I took photo's from a distance and slowly rode up close to them – they then rush off into the bush.
Within an hour the signage had changed this time the warning was for sheep on the road. I was not to be disappointedly. I came across two of these animals feeding along the side of the road. Once again I stopped for a distance photo and proceeded slowly towards them only to have them dart off up the side hill and into the trees.

My next encounter was even more rewarding. I had hoped I would see some of the animals along my travels but I had never dreamed I would see them so soon, see so many of them and see them up so close. These are the Buffalo – so ugly they are but equally beautiful and massive. I can across a herd of fifty or more scattered over a twenty Kilometre stretch of this highway. When I seen the first one I was ride through heavy rain and from a distance I had no idea what it was. I slowed and rode passed as it simply strolling down the shoulder of the highway. Wow - I gotta get a photo of that - I pulled-up a safe distance ahead of him – got out my camera – turned the bike around and rode up passed him only to turn around and ride slowly by him again for the third time. This time I am riding within two metres from him. I am moving along at about 10 km/hr the clutch on the bike is disengaged with my left hand while my throttle hand holds the camera off to the side and my index finger frantically pulses the button in hope of finding this monster in that little squared window. I am extremely excited about this and over the next 30 minutes I have ample opportunity to stop and admire these beautiful creatures – and ride by many within a three or four metre distance.
There is still more to come. My next encounter was even more spectacular. I am aware that there are a number of these guys around. I knew that they would probably see me - however I didn't think I'd see them - but that changed today.. I rode up over hill only to find two vehicles parked on the side of the road approximately 500 Metres ahead of me. The vehicle occupants were scanning the side hill off in my direction. I slowed and soon noticed it - a large brown bear up on the hill was strolling along the tree line. Wow – that's incredible. I had no intentions of trying to get a photo - This guy is king in this domain.. He soon turned and headed off into the bush. I rode up to the vehicles - stopped and chatted about over good fortune - was it a brown bear or a grizzly. We'll never know but it was an experience I'll never forget.

These encounters has been an incredible experience – truly amazing. I continue my ride onward only to notice a new warning sign. This time it a warning about horse on the highway. Sure enough with ten minutes down the road I come across a herd of 30 or more grazing along an area allocated for trucks to install chains for winter driving. I slow to admire view – there was no need for a photo – Nature has provided me with a tremendous gift today. This has turned out to be one of the most amazing motorcycle rides ever.

The following day I awoke to more rain and set out on the final stretch to Whitehorse, the Yukon's capital city. Before leaving Watson Lake I stopped to take on fuel. I then attempted to pay for this service with my visa card only to have the transaction denied. A second swipe of the card confirmed my fears – it ain't workin.. I thought “the problem maybe with this particular outlet” so I paid with cash and moved on. A couple of hours later I stopped for lunch and more fuel - Once again my trustworthy visa card was denied access. “Is there a public phone nearby” I ask. After being placed on hold for fifteen minutes or more and hearing “your call is important to us please hold for the next available operator” a number of times I finally get to talk to Eric. He informs me my account has been frozen due to a number of suspicious activities i.e. a recent change of address, an incorrect telephone number and an irregular pattern of transactions. In order to reactivate my account I must report to an affiliated bank with plenty of ID - the bank will then contact visa. Eric then tell me there is a branch in Whitehorse.

I ride into that Capital City by 17:00 hrs and located a very nice travel information center. I collect my brochures and make arrangements for a bed for the night. A biker approaches me a says “Are you riding that BMW out there” to which I respond affirmatively “so your the guy who taken a year off to ride” - I was really surprised with this comment – I guess this riding community is much smaller then I had assumed - I meet and chat with bikers – he meets and chats with bikers and the word gets out. Amazing.
The following morning I rode down to the bank and tell my story to Judy a very helpful customer service lady. After verifying my I.D. and a lengthly discussion with the visa people my card is re-established. This whole process was somewhat of an inconvenience but when compared to what could have happened if other had access to my card this was minor.
I locate the Klondike highway and ride North towards Dawson City along the way I notice a sign “Fort Selkirk Boat Tours”. I turn off the highway onto a road which leads to the Yukon River. At this location sits the beautiful log cabin office of “Big Rivers Enterprises”. I am soon greeted by Heinz and Ted. They had completed their river tours for the day and were enjoying a beverage. I am invited in for one of the same. Because I am riding I must pass on that offer. For the next 1 ½ hours I sit and visit with the two very interesting transplanted Yukoners. A nice encounter it was.

I arrived in Dawson City on Saturday the 29th and proceed to investigate some of the tourist attractions. I stop by the information center to question about riding the Dempster Highway. I was told that the weather forecast for the next five day is excellent. It's a no brainer - time to go. First I take on fuel and make my to Tombstone Park approximately 75 KM up the highway to camp overnight. The following morning I am off to ride this gravel and crushed stone road which extends 742 km to Inuvik an Inuit village 325 km above the Arctic Circle in the Northwest Territories. This wilderness route will crosses the Arctic Circle and span the remote regions of the Yukon cutting through two mountain ranges the Ogilvie and Richardson Mountains, then follow miles of stunted spruce and alder "forests" (8'-12' tall), and cross the treeless tundra it will require two ferry crossings over the Peel and Mackenzie Rivers before arriving in Inuvit.

It was amazing ride yet extremely demanding. The highway's surface conditions varied from very good to extremely poor. It does test both the rider and the motorcycle. I had two concerns – the first is fuel – I would require a riding range of 367 KM since I am not packing an extra fuel container – The second concern are my tires - although newly installed in Edmonton they are at risk of damage from the abusive surface.
I was extremely impressed with my fuel consumption on the Dempster Highway. I easily covered the 367 KM without switching to the reserve supply of gasoline. When I did stop for fuel at Eagle Plains I purchased 15.5 litres to cover that distance – this I considered excellent.

The tires did survive the distance but I did carry with me a tire repair kit and other repair components in the event of a failure.

I completed this ride in one day over an eleven hour period. It was a dream come through - I had pondered this ride for a year or more and now I have ridden it. Word cannot describe the tremendous sense of accomplishment to stand at the Arctic Circle – to ride from the Yukon into the Northwest Territories – to ride across the tundra – to cross the MacKenzie River and finally to ride Into Inuvik – I've done it.

My plan was to stay in Inuvik for a couple of day and catch a flight to Tuktoyahtuk. Unfortunately the flight (light aircraft) was booked for the next couple of days and the weather forecast was for rain. I decided my stay in Inuvik would be over night. I'd ride out of town in the morning.

More on the Dempster to follow...

Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway at Dawson Creek, B.C.

These sheep were grazing along the Alaska Highway. We later seen more of these in Alaska making their way along the edge of cliffs high above the highway.

It was amazing to ride by this big guy - I am moving along at about 10 km/hr the clutch on the bike is disengaged with my left hand while my throttle hand holds the camera off to the side and my index finger frantically pulses the button in hope of finding this monster in that little squared window. Not bad eh!!!

What a reward this has been to be riding amongst this amazing creatures.These buffalo were part of a herd who were grazing along the Alaska Highway in Northern British Columbia near the Yukon border.

Welcome to the Yukon – It great to be here!!!

The sign post forest was started in 1942 by a homesick U.S. Army G.I. working on the Alaska Highway. He erected a sign here pointing the way and stating the mileage to his hometown. Others followed his lead and are still doing so to this day. I found a sign from the Village of St. Hilaire, New Brunswick / near Edundston.

This historic vessel has been restored by Parks Canada. It now sits on the banks of the Yukon River at Whitehorse.

As far as offices go they don't get any better then this one remotely located on the banks of the majestic Yukon River between Whitehorse and Dawson City. I enjoyed a very nice visit with Heinz of “Big River Enterprises” and co-worker Ted the photographer

Dredge No. 4 is a wooden hulled gold dredge that operated in the Klondike River watershed in Yukon Territory between 1912 and 1959.

I was extremely excited to have reach the Artic Circle – A major accomplishment it was and something I had dreamed about doing for sometime.

This Northwest Territories boundry is located 20 KM north of the Artic Circle. From here 320 KM of hard riding will get you to the Inuit community of Inuvik.

For Bragging Rights only