"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover". Mark Twain

Saturday, March 31, 2007

Estados de Oaxaca y Tamaulipas

At 07:30 on the morning of March 27th I rode through the busy city of Veracruz and located highway 180 on the northern edge of the city. Over the next few days I would ride this highway north to the city of Matamoros, Tamaulipas where I would cross the border into Brownsville, Texas. I was feeling very good about heading north following a very nice visit with Tania and Julie. These past 3.5 months in Mexico have been very rewarding. I have thoroughly enjoyed my visit in this country – I've had an opportunity to interface with the locals - to experience the culture – the food – kindness of the people. But now it feels good to be returning to the USA - a place where a fair hair – light skin – blue eyed individual can get lost in a crowd instead of thinking “why is everybody always looking at me”.

This inland route which followed the coast provided few scenic views of the sea. The ride was uneventful except for a number of army and police check points. The first stop was an army check point - I was requested to open one of my luggage boxes for inspection. This inspection process went very smoothly and within a few minutes I was allowed to proceed. An hour later I encounter a second army check point where I was once again requested to stop. This heavily armed group of young men where supporting Federal Agents who were dressed in civilian clothing. At this stop I was questioned by a lady who spoke very good English. She questioned me about my travels within Mexico and requested to see my passport. I was then allowed to proceed. Within 25 kilometres I encountered a third stop. The Policia Federal had established an inspection area and I was requested to stop. An officer request me to present the vehicle temporary import permit and my tourist permit. This would be the first time I would present these documents to an official since they had been issued to me 3.5 month ago at the border crossing from Arizona. Fortunately the documents were acceptable and I was allowed to proceed. I would terminate this days ride in the city of Tuxpam. I booked a room at a hotel and rode into the city centre - parked the bike and walked around the square to to find a place for dinner. A tourist destination Tuxpan is not and once again all eyes were focused on the Gringo. When I returned to the bike I was approached by an individual who was very interested in the moto. Even though neither one of us could converse in the others language we were able to make ourself understood and enjoy a very pleasant exchange. These encounters with the locals is what make travel in this country interesting.

The following morning with an early start I pointed my trusty steed in a northerly direction. This was to be my last full day in Mexico. My plan was to ride 400 kilometres and stop for the night. At this point I would be within 200 kilometres of Texas. The following day I would have an easy ride to Brownsville. When I arrived in the city of Tampico traffic became very congested. As I progressed trough the city I heard a loud whistle – I turned in the direct from where the sound originated to see a police officer on foot motioning me to stop - A second police officer on a motorcycle quickly pulls-up behind me. The motorcycle cop tells me in Spanish he want to see my drivers license – which I hand over to him. He then tells in broken English me “I had failed to make a stop and I must pay”. The second cop arrives and states “you must pay”. I inform them I didn't understand what I had done wrong. Their response was “you must pay”. Well then who do I pay – “you pay me”. “How much do I pay”? “One hundred American dollars” was their reply. “I don't have $100.00 US dollars”. Unfortunately I had consolidated the remaining cash I carried with me and placed it in my wallet that morning before I left the hotel. Until today I had never before carried more the $300 Pesos in my wallet. I offered the cops $400.00 Pesos. One cop say “No” reached over and took my wallet from me and removed the 5 x $200.00 Pesos from the wallet. He returns the wallet and hands me the driver license. He passes two of the bills to his buddy and tells me I must follow him. “Where are we going”? I ask - to which he responds “you must follow me”. Not comfortable with this process I maintain a distance behind him. He had taken me via a short-cut to the highway. He wave me past him and told me to go. Happy to oblige I move on. I had plenty of time to ponder this incident over the next hours of my ride. As this incident unfolded I felt extremely threatened and very uneasy with this situation. What sadden me most is not the fact that I been robbed but what happens to the system when people in positions of authority are corrupt. The system cannot function and it is the poor Mexican people who suffers most. This incident has not tarnished my views of Mexico. A couple of thieves cannot alter the fact that I had a wonderful visit to this country – I met plenty of very kind, helpful and considerate people. I will definitely return to this country south of winter – not in the immediate future but at a later time. But as for today - when this day ends - my trusty steed and I will be in Brownsville, Texas.