The North Part II

I rode into Inuvik on Sunday evening and had a quick tour of the town. I stopped by to check out the camping area where I met Jim a rider from Calgary who had arrive in this community a few hours before I did. I then decided to check into a hotel for the night. A good night sleep would be required for the ride back to Eagle Plains in the morning.

By 08:00 hrs I was ready to commence my ride south. I've had breakfast, topped up my fuel supply and added a few extra pounds of air to bring my tire pressure up to their maximum rating. While I was leaving the community I met Kevin, Frank and Kevin three adventure riders from Orangeville Ontario. I met these riders an number of times on my ride North yesterday. I was invited to join them for breakfast – but I passed for I was keen to commence my ride.

This half of the road south is in extremely poor condition. Within the first half hour I came upon a accident scene. An SUV had left the road and overturned. Other motorist had arrived on the scene before I did. I stopped and asked if I could be of assistance. I was informed everyone was okay and there was nothing I could do so I proceeded on my way. I was very much enjoy my ride. This area is beautiful with an abundance of wild life. Although one must continuously monitor the varying road conditions thus leaving little time to scan for wild life I did seen plenty of ptarmigan, a few foxes and a bear.

I was surprised to see a number of cyclist on this road. I stopped to chat with a young couple who were having lunch. The told me about one of their saddle-bags being being stolen by a wolf last night – they never did recover it . They asked if I had see any bear – I reluctantly shared my sighting. They told me that they chatted with someone who had taken a photo of a muskox. Wow that's amazing I'd love to see one of those. I wish them both well and rode on.

The sky was changing, rain clouds were up ahead. I had been told that this road can be disastrous when wet. Because of the large amounts of calcium used on this road rain will turn the mud into a sludge / slurry and the riding will become horrendous. I had met a number of riders who were returning home following their tour of the North who rode this road in the rain. They talked about riding in first and second gear dragging their feet in a attempt to remain upright only to have the bike slide out from under them and down they'd go into the sludge. This tale I heard over and over again. One adventure rider told me “if your going to ride the Dempster take a picture of your bike because it will never be the same after the ride”. I did get a chuckle over that comment. But little did I realize it would soon come back to haunt me..

I had crossed the border from the Northwest Territories into the Yukon. Another 20 KM will have me at the Arctic Circle and 40 KM beyond that is where I'd end my ride for the day. I was looking forward to a couple of cold ones and some supper. I was ridding at 80 + KM along the open tundra follow a very narrow track in the road where the gravel had been cleared by vehicle traffic. I rode up over a hill and rounded a bend. There I was hit with a very heavy gust of wind (much like the wind on the Prairies). I was blown out of my cleared path and into heavy gravel and rocks. I had experienced riding in heavy gravel plenty of times in the past 1000 KM and always manged to ride out of it. This time it wasn't to be. The bike started to oscillate which will happen when ridding in gravel. But this time I couldn't ride out of it. The oscillations only became amplified and down we went hard on the left side. I went down with the bike but at some point we parted and I was project through the air and landed on my back on the soft tundra. “This can't be good” I thought as I lay there on my back.. I quickly realized I was not injured and got up to check my beloved motorcycle. There it lay resting on the road's embankment which lead down to the tundra. It was pointing North that's were I was coming from. The bike appeared to have weather the fall pretty good. The left aluminum Jesse luggage box was severely damaged. It had taken the brunt of the fall. The right box had broken free from the bike and my belongs were scattered along the road.

For a moment I thought “that a fine mess you've got yourself into – why can't you be like most others and be content to stay home get out of bed in the morning, put on the coffee and sit back - reading the paper” -- All right “enough of that shit” We got to deal with this!! I picked-up my scattered belongs and stuffed them back into the box. A close inspection revealed that one of the boxes attaching mechanisms had sheered off. This box will require some other method to secure it in place before I can ride. The second box was badly banged-up. The hinged cover had opened on impact thus causing the box to collapse when we touched down – the cover on the other had was not damaged.

I had plenty of time to ponder the situation although my focus may not have been very good because the adrenaline was running very high. Within 45 minutes an SUV with two men heading north approached me and stopped. They were concern about my well being. I assured them I was okay and asked if they'd help to get the bike back onto the road. The driver indicated he could secure a rope onto the bike and haul it up onto the road – to which I responded with hesitation “No F—cking Way”... The other individual went down onto the tundra and noticed what appeared to be a ramp like path which lead back to the road. We then simply stood the bike upright and pushed it backwards onto the road then placed it on it side stand.

At this point the three adventure riders I had chatted with before I departed this morning arrived on the scene. These guys were a tremendous help. With level heads and know how - we soon had the bike running again – the damaged bag secure to the bike. As we started to ride the rain began and fortunately we made our way to Eagle Plains without incident.

I checked into my room and then went to find the Kevin, Frank and Kevin who were having supper. I was extremely grateful for their assistance. These guys then got onto their bikes and rode out to Dawson City in the rain.

What a positive effect a good night sleep will provide. The following morning I awoke ready for the new challenge – “I've gotta get this stuff repaired”. I first requested a large garbage bag from the kitchen staff – then with duct tape I carried with my tool supplies I was able to seal the severely damaged box from the elements. I then rearranged the straps to secure the other box – with the bungy cords and the cargo net I was carrying I soon had my load well secure and ready to ride the next 367 KM back to civilization and hopefully some help.

It had rained through the night and into the morning. The road reported indicated the first 100 KM south is very muddy while the remaining 267 KM is better. They also stated the road north is fogged in – the rain continues in that region – and the road conditions are extremely poor. I thought about those poor cyclist!!

I also learned that Jim the biker from Calgary who I had met in Inuvik had also arrived last evening. He was delayed and got caught in heavy rain. As he approached Eagle Plains his bike had slid out from under him in the sludge and he went down hard. Although he was in very good spirits he was hurting - he had a nasty bruise on his right shoulder and he assumed it was dislocated or his collar bone was broken. He stated he had rode the bike around the parking lot this morning and it didn't feel to bad. He wasn't sure if he'd ride out today. I indicated I would wait to ensure the rain had stopped before I would ride south and that I'd check with him before I left.

A couple of hours later I went back to check on Jim. I offered to ride out with him – but he had decided he'd stay to rest for another day. So off I went. There were parts of the ride back to Dawson City which was challenging but it was equally fun.

When I reached the highway and pavement I noticed a bike had come up behind me. It appeared to be another GS... It followed me into Dawson City where I noticed the three bikes which belong to my buddies who help out after the crash. I parked in the same location and so did the other biker. We chatted a bit and I indicated I was off to locate these three characters and invited him to come along.

All five of us when out for a few beer and a very good supper. It was good to exchange war stories and to laugh about the events of the past day or so. Because of the pending rain John the rider who'd followed me into town and I decided we'd share a room for the night.

While we were at the pub I went over to chat with one of the local residents and asked if he knew of an automotive body repair shop where I could repair my aluminum Jesse luggage boxes. He wasn't sure about a body shop but suggested I should contact “Versatile Hank” I'd find him in the phone book.

I call Hank at 08:00 the following morning. Apparently Hank is off for medical reasons but Glen says he's willing to have a look at the boxes. John and I ride over to find Glen. As my luck would have it – Glen turns out to be a very soft spoken / kind man who is extremely skilled with tools. Both John and I had installed the mounting hardware and boxes on our bikes and we both understand how much of a challenge it was to get them on properly. These boxes and their mounting hardware have been damaged and they must be dismantled. These components have taken all of the abuse when the bike and I went down. The only damage to the motorcycle was a broken mirror on the left side. It is simply amazing the abuse these boxes have taken. They saved me from injury and prevented the bike from damage.

Over the next three hours the hardware and boxes are reshaped and refitted.. I am extremely impressed and very pleased with the results of our efforts.. Glen stated “it is a good thing you purchased quality boxes because there is no way we could have done this inferior components” - Mr. Jesse you sure make good boxes.. I am please I paid the extra buck and purchased quality.

I then reload my bike... John and I met for lunch / supper in Dawson City. We then set off to ride the “top of the world highway” another dirt road. This road was built over the mountain tops from Dawson City to Tok, Alaska. It's raining in the mountains but this road is like a freeway compared to the Dempster. I love riding this stuff – boys still enjoy playing in the mud – only these days our toys are different. It beautiful up here and I am having a blast..

We arrive at the tiny community of Little Gold Creek located at latitude 141 degrees. This community is the most westerly point in Canada beyond here is the US border and Alaska. It is at this point where I have reached another very significant milestone. I have now rode a motorcycle to the four corners of this great land of ours. I have ridden to Cape Spear, Newfoundland in the east and to Little Gold Creek, Yukon to the west. I have ridden to the end of the Dempster Highway to Inuvik in the Northwest Territories and onto Ontario's Peelee Island to the south.. Another proud moment in this awesome Journey...

This section of the Dempster Highway is the pass through Ogilvie Mountain Range

Ridding south on the Dempster heading into the Richardson mountains..

The Dempster wilderness route crosses the tundra. It was very exciting to ride across this very unique landscape.

More of the Richardson Mountains..

The Dempster's Tombstone Territorial Park.

Kevin, Frank and Kevin – These adventure riders from Orangeville, Ontario were on a 4 week tour of the Yukon, Alaska and BC.. They were instrumental in getting me back on the road following my little mishap..

This Jesse luggage box (left side) was extensively damaged when the moto and I touched down on the Dempster (Dumpster) Highway

The right luggage box – one of the attaching mechanism was sheered off and an alternate attachment method was required.. This worked very well...

Glen utilizes a pinch bar to reshape the aluminum box – the truck did budge a mm.

With the help of a rubber mallet Glen make a couple of fine adjustments..

Mission accomplished – A job well done.. John and Glen - these guys were a tremendous help. I was amazed that these boxes were restored without a major overhaul - even their waterproof capabilities have been maintained.

The smile says it all.. These are the conditions that make life interesting. Forty Eight hours ago I was sitting on the tundra 20 KM north of the Arctic Circle alone with a motorcycle that was down and out.. Today all is well and I met some great people who have helped me through the process. “Life is Good”

Note the wooden board walks and the gravel streets.. That's my buddy John up ahead with the Yellow riding jacket.

A walk through Dawson City feels as if you've turn back the pages of time .

Dawson City is the heart of the Klondike Gold Rush - An incredible community that has preserved its past.

The top of the World Highway is a dirt road which runs from Dawson City, Yukon to Tok, Alaska - This road would probably make it to the list of top 10 most scenic ride - a blast to ride it was.

The top of the world highway – and we're off to find those switch-backs.. I had regularly questioned my decision to purchase the GS as opposed to a touring motorcycle. I no longer ponder such thoughts - This is my element - I love riding off road and this is the GS's domain.