No Fixed Address: Calfornia

Eat, Sleep and Ride.... An awesome 12 days of riding California has provided. I rode in this State on a rainy Sunday afternoon on October 15th making my entry via the North West corner from Oregon. By 6 PM I had settled into the Travel Lodge Motel in the town of Crescent City. The office manager suggested a Chinese Restaurant as one of the possible dinner options. So off I go for a very enjoyable meal c/w fortune cookie with 2 messages one reads “A bold and dashing adventure is in your future within the year”. All right - Now that's good news – That I'd enjoy. The second note stated “You will receive unexpected support over the next week. Accept it graciously”. I'll make reference to this message later in the posting.
Rain continued the following morning with light showers under cloudy skies. I decided I would move on. I stopped at the Redwood Nation Park information center. The Ranger on duty, a biker fan, was very interested in the R-1200-GS and my ride. A very nice chat we had. He suggested I ride a dirt road through the park then connect with a secondary road onto highway 199 which would lead me back into Crescent City. So off I go to find this Jejediah Smith road. What a treat this ride turned out to be on a rainy Monday morning. This mostly single lane road meandered through a forest of huge Redwoods. I encountered 3 SUVs over the length of the ride heading in the opposite direction. It felt like I was out here on my own in this peaceful forest of giant Redwoods. When I reached the end of the road I turned around and rode the same route back into town. Why would I ride on a highway when there is an option to ride a great dirt road. At the end of the ride the GS is covered in mud and looking good again.
By noon the rain became more intense so I decide to remain in Crescent City for another night. I book a room at the Front Street Motel – I was provided a room upstairs and away from the parking lot. I thought I would take the remainder of this rainy day to work on the blog. Although the sign outside the motel stated wireless Internet access - the signal was much too weak thus rendering the system useless. So I settled down and worked off line and caught up on some reading. An easy uneventful afternoon / evening it turned out to be. However, at 1 AM I was awaken by the sound of the anti-thief alarm on my bike. I jumped up out of bed thinking “shit, someone is messing with my bike”. Where am I - where are my pants - where are my boots. Before I could get dressed the alarm reset - thus indicating no further bike movement. I could not see the bike from my room – what should I do? I can't go out and fight with a couple of thugs but I can't let them mess with my bike. I had to go check – I waited a few minutes and went outdoors – there was no one around and the bike remained covered with the tarp. I carried a tarp which I use to cover the bike overnight while parked in these environments – I am assuming someone attempted to remove the tarp from the bike which was on its center stand. Perhaps while leaning on the bike or putting on the tarp it causing the rear wheel to drop a few millimetres and activated the alarm. Whatever had happened the alarm functioned properly and frightened the intruders off. I returned to my bed for a very restless night and a very early morning get away.

I continued riding along the coast of California to the town of Eureka where I would spent the night. The following morning I rode away from a very foggy coastal city and had headed westward into the Coastal Mountains Range through the Shasta-Trinity National Forest to the City of Redding and beyond to Lassen Volcanic National Park. The advantage of touring in mid October is the limited traffic within these remote areas. I experienced a very pleasant ride through Lassen Volcanic National Park. Sunday and Monday's coastal rain had provided a blanket of snow in the elevated regions of this park at 10,457 feet. It was neat to experience this season's first traces of snow. The warmth of the mid October sun had cleared all of the snow from the road thus providing great autumn riding. However, in one area where the water from melting snow had been running across the road during the early afternoon's sunshine was now turning into slush / ice as the sun dropped behind the mountain and the cool air set in. It was scary to come upon this product with very little or no warning. Fortunately the line I selected was ice free and I proceeded without incident. To quote my Alaskan riding buddy John “that experience initiated a 8.5 on the rectum tightening scale.” I noticed a Park Ranger as I rode by a picnic area – I stopped to inquire if I'd experience more of these surprises before I left the park. I was informed that I would have clear sailing as I dropped to the lower elevations – off I go for some easy riding to the community of Red Bluff where I would spend the night.

The ride south through the Sacramento Valley has brought back traces of summer. Not since the days of late August in the Okanagan Valley have I experienced these summer temperatures. The Sacramento Valley is sheltered by the Sierra Nevada's to the east, the Coastal Mountains to the west and the Siskiyou's to the north. This region is lush flat grasslands rich in citrus, nut orchards and large cattle ranches. I selected a number of secondary routes through this scenic valley which provided a very pleasant ride. At Yuba City I located highway 20 and rode west into the mountains to Tahoe National Forest and into the resort communities of Lake Tahoe. A section of highway worthy of comment was a pass over the top of a mountain in the National Forest. This road was barely wide enough for two vehicles – without guard rails and the potential for a drop of 20 metres or more over a very sharp edge – an attention getter indeed and worthy of note. I would spend a day in this region exploring Squaw Valley Ski Resort the home of 1960 Winter Olympics Games, the picturesque town of Lake Tahoe and a ride around the lake's perimeter.

From South Lake Tahoe on a cool bright autumn morning I set out for Yosemite National Park. The ride would take me into Nevada to locate highway 395 - continuing south on this route I would returned to California and ride through the Sierra Nevada Mountains, lush valleys, the Toiyabe National Forest, Mono Lake and finally into Yosemite National Park. This day's ride turned out to be as much about the journey as the destination. A great ride it was and Yosemite is an amazing place. Yosemite National Park is another region worthy of a “WOW” – As I rode into this boxed canyon a granite wall 7 miles long and 1 mile across with near vertical cliffs 3,000 feet high stood before me. One of the cliffs known as El Capitan is 3600 feet and is one of the world largest piece of exposed granite. It was easy to become absorbed in this place and lose track of time. The sun was low in the sky when I left the park and darkness had set in by the time I reached the town of Merced where I booked a room at the Travel Lodge Motel. This being the off-season, motel rates have become competitive and affordable. The town of Merced is located in the San Joaquin Valley and thus maintains extended summer temperatures. For the next two days I would remain in this region – pitch a tent – relax and enjoy the sun's warmth. It was good to be sleeping outdoor again. Although the nights were cool, the morning sun soon restored temperatures to a very comfortable level.

A chat with some of the locals would determine my next destination. My journey over the past months has been very much a laissez-faire (were should I go tomorrow) and it is rare that I'd pass on a recommendation from a local. I broke camp early on a Sunday morning and set out on a recommended route via a series of secondary roads to Kings Canyon National Park and Sequoia National Park. This ride would take me through the interestingly named communities of Catheys Valley, Mariopsa, Ahwahnee, Coarsegold, Fresno and Grants Grove before I would reached Kings Canyon National Park. The highway through this park takes the rider along steep mountain roads with sharp drop-offs. This is a highway of many curves and switchbacks along towering granite cliffs and tumbling waterfalls. An amazing ride this day provided. From King Canyon National Park I rode into the adjacent Sequoia National Park the home of the majestic sequoia trees. Parking the moto and taking a walk through a section known as the giant forest was very inspiring. These living giants soar hundreds of feet into the heavens. In volume of total wood, the giant sequoia stands alone as the largest living thing on Earth. In all the world, sequoias grow naturally only in this region on the west slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains most often between elevations of 5,000 and 7,000 feet. One of the trees I stopped to admire is designated as the General Sherman tree and is between 2,300 and 2,700 years old. Simply a great day this Sunday has rendered. I rode out of the park returning to the San Joaquin Valley and the community of Three Rivers where I camped for the night.

The following day I rode south through the valley. At lunch time I stopped in the small community of Springville where I located a cafe with a shaded outside deck. There I would enjoy great coffee and a good meal. I chatted with a couple of ladies who stated summers in this region are very hot and sometime unbearable - for 4 days this past July temperatures remained at a scorching 118 degrees(48C). Following lunch I headed west to ride through Sequoia National Forest crossing over the Sierra Nevada Mountains via Sherman Pass. Another memorial ride this turned out to be. However the excitement and rewards associated with riding over this isolated scenic pass were somewhat shadowed by the concern over my limited fuel supply and lack of planning. I completed the days ride in the community of Lone Pine as the fuel warning alarm was activated – thus indicating 80 KM of travel was available with the remaining fuel. I purchased fuel and located a motel room where I would spend the night.

The small community of Lone Pine is located on the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains at the base of Mount Whitney (14,494 feet / 4418M) the highest point in the lower 48 states. From this location I would set out for Death Valley National Park. This National Park is a land of extremes. It consist of 3.3 million acres of spectacular desert scenery, rare desert wildlife and complex geology. It contains the lowest, hottest, driest location in North America. Summer temperatures commonly run above 120 degrees Fahrenheit (49C). Death Valley is one of the hottest places on earth, attaining the second-highest temperature ever recorded, 134 degrees F (57). It contains the lowest point in the western hemisphere 282 feet(86M) below sea level near Badwater - the highest point (in the lower 48 states) Mount Whitney just 76 miles (123 km) west. It was incredible to ride through this land. A place with a name so dismal and doomful, an inhospitable and hostile place yet it is a place of much intrigue to this Maritimer. It was an awesome feeling to stretch my legs out over the bike's engine guards, lean back against gear strapped onto the bike and belt out those great Eagle tunes as I rolled along over the desert highway. Singing to my trusty steed “ I get a peaceful, easy feeling and I know you won't let me down 'cause I'm already standing on the ground” and another favorite “On a dark desert highway cool wind in my hair warm smell of coletus rising up through the air up ahead in the distance I saw a shimmering light my head grew heavy and my sight grew dim I had to stop for the night” great tune Hotel California by the Eagles. What a blast this ride was.. I did stop for the night at a place called Furnace Creek where I camped for the next 2 nights and spent 3 days enjoying the autumn desert warmth and learning about this amazing place known as Death Valley.

People I encountered along the way..
I am always impressed with individuals who chose bicycles to travel great distances. I met Mike a Bostonian cycling through Death Valley where we both had stopped to admire a large salt lake. I learned that he had started his journey in Fairbanks Alaska and rode down the Alcan Highway, through the Canadian Rockies in the USA and was on his way to Mexico. I questioned Mike about what it felt like to be pedaling down a highway and see bears grazing in the ditches up ahead.. Not a very good feeling was his response but nothing like having a bear come into your tent. And then he proceeded to tell a story about a bear destroying his tent one night as he lay there but fortunately the panic and hollering frightened the critter off and all that had to be replaced was a tent.. A motorcyclist walked by as I chatted with Mike and spotted my license plated. She enthusiastically question me about my trip.. My reaction was “lady that's nothing - talk to this man” and pointed to Mike – I have much respect for individuals with such courage.

While camping in Death Valley I met Larry and Jill and couple of motorcycle enthusiastic who had trailered their dirt bikes from LA to the desert for a few days off road riding. Larry is also the proud owner of a great looking Red R-1200-GS which he had left at home.. I was invited to join them for dinner one evening – it was great to share good food and exchange biking stories. This couple was very kind to me and for that I am grateful.
I shared lunch with Cleo and Jan, two biker ladies both in their 50s from Utah. They were returning home following a 4.5 months journey through Canada. The objective of their ride was to attempt to get as far north in each province as their cruiser bikes, a Harley and a Yamaha, would allow. A very interesting chat we had. I was extremely impressed with these ladies who rode their bikes c/w street tires across the Trans Labrador Highway. There were many who cautioned them and suggested not to attempt this – but Jan's response “I'll worry about that tomorrow, today we ride”. You gotta love it!!!

I rode into the town of Pahrump, Nevada and stopped at a strip mall to withdraw cash from the local bank. There I met Pat a biker enthusiastic who had expressed interest with the bike and my ride. We chatted for sometime and as the discussion came to a close I asked if there was a campground near by. Pat paused for a moment and stated “Hey I got a garage where this is room to store your bike, I got a spare bedroom you are welcome to have and I've picked up groceries as he pointed to the cart – I'll put something on for supper.” This offer can as a total surprise – I wasn't sure how to respond. So I chose the easy route and passed... now realized that this was a missed opportunity. As I rode off I thought about the fortune cookie and it's message. You will receive unexpected support over the next week. Accept it graciously.

It was an awesome feeling to stretch my legs out over the bikes engine guards, lean back against gear strapped onto the bike and belt out those great Eagle tunes as I rolled along over the desert highway. Singing to my trusty steed “ I get a peaceful, easy feeling and I know you won't let me down 'cause I'm already standing on the ground”

Service didn't appear to very good here so I moved on.

A typical desert scene. The temperature on this October day in Death Valley was a hot 90F (32C) degrees

Sand Dunes of Death Valley

Mount Whitney (14,494 feet / 4418M) the highest point in the lower 48 states is located on the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

The Joshua Tree is a native to the southwestern states of California, Arizona, Utah and Nevada.

Switchbacks through the Sequoia National Park

Some of the challenges road builders must overcome to provide access to the remote area's of Kings Canyon National Park.

Some come to California to visit San Francisco, Los Angeles or San Diego. Others come explore remote mountain passes.

Sequoias grow naturally only in this region on the west slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains most often between elevations of 5,000 and 7,000 feet.