"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover". Mark Twain

Sunday, August 19, 2007

Atlantic Canada

This is the final installment of this amazing motorcycle ride through North American. It appears I had saved the best for last for the touring through New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and Newfoundland – Labrador was most enjoyable. This is a region with plenty of secondary less-traveled roads which follow the coast or meander along it's many majestic rivers through rural communities, small towns and villages. It is a vast area which is sparsely populated where the pace of life is slow and the hospitality second to none. I felt very much at home in this region. Of all the areas I've toured throughout this vast Continent, Atlantic Canada would be on the top of places to re-visit .

Grand Falls, New Brunswick – During the spring freshet this very narrow gorge on the St. John River will pass 6 million litres of water, (9/10 th of the volume of Niagara Falls) over this falls per second.


I met Lionel and Jean in Fredericton. They had their Triumph shipped by air from England to Toronto – They rode east to Nova Scotia / PEI and onto Drumheller, Alberta where they visited with family. I would later receive an e-mail indicating their ride through Canada was most enjoyable.


My buddy Gerry wets a paddle on the Nashwaak River near Fredericton


A great afternoon on the Nashwaak River.


The picturesque St. John River east of Fredericton.


This cable ferry shuttle vehicles across the St. John River near the village of Gagetown, NB.


This osprey was not happy because I was at the base of it nest – along the Jemseg River, NB.


I stopped to admire the pretty flowers near Cambridge Narrows, NB


Where the mighty Restigouche meets Chaleur Baie – From the back deck of Tania's house.


These fishing boats sit on the sea's bottom near Alma, NB. Within 12 hours the Fundy tides will raise these boats up to the docks edge.


Rainbow on the Bouctouche River – I shared this great view with my good friends John, Marise and their son Jonathan. While traveling in Newfoundland some 3 weeks later I would receive the terrible news that Jonathan was killed in a car accident.


Somewhere along the Northumberland Strait near Richibucto, NB


Fishing boats tied-up near Esuminac, NB.


The Maritime way. While traveling through Northern NB – I stopped to visit friends and learned Marc was installing a roof on his new garage. Labour was exchanged for beer and a good time was had during the process.


The Restigouche River and the First Nation Mik'Maq community of Listuguj.



These long canoe's are the mode of transportation on the Restigouche and Matapedia Rivers.


The Matapadea River near the village of Matapedia.
Kayaking on the St. John River near Fredericton

The Confederation Bridge between NB and PEI is considered as one of Canada's most significant engineering achievements of the 20th century.


A piece of PEI coast near Cavendish.


A family farm – near Wheatley River, PEI


A field of wild flowers - PEI
A sheltered harbour on PEI's northeast shore.
The lighthouse at East Point - PEI's most easterly community.

A scenic view near Souris, PEI


The lighthouse at Wood Island, PEI



The community signs posted along the south shore of Nova Scotia's Bras d'Or Lake are bilingual Scottish Gaelic and English.



The highlands of Cape Breton, NS


One of Cape Breton's many sheltered harbours.


Another great meal – this one was shared with my good friends Steve and Nora.


A wet morning of kayaking with buddy Steve near Hubley, NS

The picturesque community of Peggy's Cove


A scenic view near Chester, NS


A scenic view near Chester, NS


A scenic view near Parrsboro, NS


The church steeples of Mahone Bay, NS


My trusty steed get a new pair of running shoes.


These Continental TKC 80 duel sport were a great choice of tires to ride the Trans-Labrador highway.


The Matapedia River near the village of Matapedia, Quebec

I would board this ferry to cross the St. Lawrence River from Matane to Godbout, Quebec


The rolling hills along route 138 north of Baie Comeau, Quebec


Lighthouse on the north shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence near Godbout, Quebec.


Riding south along route 138 towards Baie Comeau, Quebec.


A scenic view along route 138 near Baie-Trinite, Quebec


A scenic view along route 138 near Baie-Trinite, Quebec


Hydro Quebec's - Manic 2 hydro generating station – 1,024 megawatts - is located on route 389 north of Baie Comeau, Quebec


The arched dam for Hydro Quebec's - Manic 5 hydro generating station – 1,528 megawatts. Route 138 would take us up onto this concrete structure.


Route 389 - this dirt road of 1200 kilometres or more would take us north in Labrador and onto Blanc Sablon located on the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Quebec.


It's a blast to be riding this route 389 – the Continental TKC 80 duel sport tire on the moto would working very nicely on this dirt road.


We encountered these locomotives along the section of route 389 between Fire Lake and Fermont, Quebec.


This load of iron ore from the Quebec Cartier Mining operation in Fermont was being transported to Baie Comeau.


This unit was once utilized in the Quebec Cartier Mining operation in Fermont. It has been retired and placed at the entrance of the mining town.


John and I at the Quebec / Labrador provincial boundary. I met John in August 2006 in Dawson City, Yukon – from there we would ride through Alaska. When I returned to southern Ontario in late May 2007 I spent a weekend with John and Heather in Peterborough. At that time we discussed riding the Trans-Labrador and continuing onto Newfoundland. So here we are - it's great to be here.


In the 196O's the town of Labrador City was built to accommodate employees of the Iron Ore Company of Canada. In the mid 70's I lived in this community and work as a maintenance technologist in the iron ore mining process. It was good to return to this community to revisit the city and rekindle past memories.



One of the units in this Labrador City apartment complex was a place I called home for a number of years.


Labrador City's Captain William Jackson Memorial Hospital – History was made here in the mid 1970 when number one son Daryl was born there.



An interesting sign posted on the Trans-Labrador highway east of Labrador City.




The overall road conditions of the Trans-Labrador provided good riding on the GS motorcycle however the road is constantly being re-graded, the gravel is very loose in many spots and area's that have been re-graded. The road surface is at times unpredictable with the occasional large rocks, treacherously loose sand and the well hidden pot hole.



More of the Trans-Labrador

These fir tree's of Labrador do not grow very tall or develop much of a trunk circumference





Labrador is a vast land with a large number of lakes and rivers..



The Trans-Labrador Highway

These 735 KV transmission lines make their way south to Quebec from the Churchill Falls Hydro Generating Station in Labrador.



Churchill Falls is one of the largest underground power stations in the world. It's 11 turbines could generate 5,428 MW.


An interesting sign posted in the Churchill Falls Hotel lobby.



This is a photo of a large picture which hung in the lobby of the Churchill Falls hotel which depicts the water flow over Churchill Falls after the hydro-electric project was completed.



This is a photo of a large picture which hung in the lobby of the Churchill Falls hotel which depicts the water flow over Churchill Falls before the hydro-electric project was completed.



These remains of a caribou were located very near a sign which prohibited hunting in this area.


People don't always pay attention to signs.



These wild flowers provided a bit of bright colour in a land of rock, forest, lakes and river


My buddy John riding east towards Goose Bay.


We arrived in Goose Bay and were treated to asphalt roads within the community – nice smooth tarmac.


We would board this ferry for an over night passage from Goose Bay to Cartwright.



A beautiful evening to be aboard the ferry – we encounter the supply ship Northern Ranger on it's route to service the remote communities along the northeast shore of Labrador.



John and I had a cabin for our overnight passage – the two additional bunks were made available to Adam and Mariola. Adam was also riding the Trans-Labrador highway aboard a new R-1200-GS Adventure.


The small remote community of Cartwright.


The portion of the Trans-Labrador highway from Cartwright to Goose Bay is under construction. The completion date is 2009. Once completed this would eliminate the requirements for ferry service.



More of the Trans-Labrador south of Cartwright
The village of Mary's Harbour
Ready for action - I would assume this snow removal equipment would have little down-time from October through May.



The Trans-Labrador Highway has provide a great few days of riding.



The remote Labrador community of Pinware.

Large pieces of icebergs slowly melt away in this remote Labrador community near Red Bay.



The fog rolls in along this stretch of coast highway near L'Anse au-Loup, Labrador.


This lighthouse at L'Anse-Amour is one of the highest along the Quebec-Labrador Coast.





We would board this ferry to cross the Strait of Belle Isle from Blanc Sablon, Quebec to St. Barbe, Newfoundland.



The rugged coast of Newfoundland's Northern Peninsula near St Anthony. From this location we could see whales move about in the coastal waters.



The fishing community of Raleigh on Newfoundland northern peninsula.



The Viking village at L'Anse aux Meadow – there is an amazing story associated with the discovery of this Viking site. In 1960 a Norwegian historian named Helge Ingstad commenced his search of the coast of North America from Maine to Labrador for evidence of a Viking village. After surveying this site in Newfoundland proof was found that Vikings were here more then 1000 years ago.



These building were constructed by Parks Canada to resemble the structures of the 1,000-year-old Viking colony at L’Anse aux Meadows. This is the site of the First known European settlement in North America. It was here that the Vikings built three timber-and-sod long-houses and five smaller buildings.



The first iron working in the New World began at L'Anse aux Meadow. The Vikings used local bog iron to make nails for ship repairs..


More of the Viking village.

I stopped to admire the view while John chat with a local fisherman.


The rugged coast of the Northern Peninsula.


Somewhere on the Northern Peninsula.


A sheltered harbour in Hawke's Bay near Port au Choix.



These large fishing boats were awaiting maintenance at the repair shop in Hawke's Bay.


Gros Morne National Park

Western Pond Brook fjord in Gros Morne National Park provides a dramatic setting for a boat tour.


More of Gros Morne's Western Brook Pond fjords.


More of Gros Morne's Western Brook Pond fjords.


More of Gros Morne's Western Brook Pond fjords.


This unfortunate Harley rider from Ohio picked-up a piece of ¼ inch tubing in his rear tire. We stopped to provide road side assistance but the tire was beyond repair. With the help of the good folks from Rocky Harbour Charlie was able to get a tire shipped in from St. John's over the next couple of days. I would later meet-up with Charlie, Scott and the girls in Twillingate where we shared drinks chilled by iceberg ice collected in the harbour


A spectacular view along route 431 on-route to Trout River.


A very interesting arrangement of sheds, docks and construction material. The photo's above and below were taken at Ming's Bight, Baie Verte.


I stopped at the Outport Museum and Tea Room in the community of La Scie for dinner one evening. Since I was the only customer I joined the owners Larry and Valerie for their evening meal, a very taste pea soup and crab platter. Both Larry and Valerie play in a local band and Larry make crazy-sticks. I was provided with a sample of just how good this Newfie music is as Larry played the accordion and Valerie the crazy-stick.


Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? Actually I wasn't very good with this musical instrument but it was fun trying.


The sun slowly drops into the North Atlantic at La Scie, Baie Verte Peninsula


It would be interesting to know the stories of the people who once call this old house in the community of Shoe Cove home.


A fishing community somewhere on the Baie Verte Peninsula.


I thoroughly enjoy these type of settings – this one was located in the remote community of Harbour Round.


I thoroughly enjoy these type of settings – this one was also located in the remote community of Harbour Round.


Another ferry to ride - this one to Fogo Island in Notre Dame Bay.



The fishing village of Joe Batt's Arm on Fogo Island.


Fogo Island is approximately twenty-one miles long and fourteen and a half miles wide. There are eleven communities with a combined population of twenty three hundred residents.


The lighthouse at Bonavista – John Cabot landed here in 1497.



Giovanni Caboto a Venetian citizen sailed from Bristol, England on a small sailing ship called the Matthew. He landed somewhere on the east coast on June 24, 1497. It is assumed he landed in Bonavista. But why have the history book called this man John Cabot?



St John's Newfoundland as seen from Signal Hill.


This off shore supply vessel exits the narrow passage from St. John's sheltered harbour.



The Cabot Tower at Signal Hill was built in 1897 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Giovanni Caboto / John Cabot's discovery of Newfoundland.



One of the original lighthouses / now decommissioned at Cape Spear. Cape Spear is the most easterly point in North America. As I rode into this National Historic Site this saddle tramp had achieved another milestone. It's a great feeling to be here.



St. John's Confederation Building – the house of assembly for the Newfoundland Labrador Government




These St. John's row-houses have been very nicely restored.


My trusty steed is handed a bouquet of flowers for providing 75,000 kilometres of reliable service during this amazing Continental Tour.


Pat and Glenda – I met this couple when they were camping with their 5th wheeler in Deer Lake. I arrived at the park near 6 PM and proceed to erect my tent. A wonderful smell was coming in my direction from Pat's BBQ – Pat comes over to visit, as we chat he extends an invitation to join he and Glenda for beers and burgers. A treat it was after a long day in the saddle. Following dinner I was invited to return to join them for a drink around the fire. A very nice visit when had. The following morning while packing-up Glenda came to my site and stated that egg's, toast and coffee was being serviced at their unit. These people have been very kind to this saddle tramp. As I left following breakfast Glenda insisted I take with me a lunch she'd prepared. Nowhere else on this continent had I been extended such hospitality – Only in Newfoundland.


A picturesque setting near Steady Brook.


Another typical Newfoundland setting – I thoroughly enjoy this environment.


This fisherman was very handy with his filleting knife – In seconds he'd have these cod fish filleted, bones removed and skinned


Ready to head to the fishing grounds - These small dory's transport the fishermen to the area where they'd use hand lines to catch cod. The dory's are painted with this bright colour to facilitate rescue when lost at sea.


Newfoundland Labrador have the most interesting names of places on this Continent.


The Coast Guard rescue vessel Cape Fox stationed in Lark Harbour – when I was in Port Hardy on Vancouver Island I was provided a tour of this vessel sister ship the Cape Sutil.


A scenic ride along route 450 east of Corner Brook


This sign is posted on the Trans-Canada Highway near Port-aux-Basque. I talked with some of the local residents about these winds. They told stores of transport trucks being pushed off the road and overturned. When the trains operated in this area there were occasions when they were derailed by the winds


The Table Mountains north of Port-aux-Basque.



The town of Port-aux-Basque.



My trusty steed is secured in-place aboard the ferry Caribou for the crossing from Port-aux-Basque to North Sydney, Nova Scotia.