Estado de Sonora, Mexico

Prior to leaving Arizona I purchased motorcycle liability insurance. The insurance coverage provided by my Canadian broker was limited to travel within Canada and the USA. The existing policy did not provide coverage for Mexico. Since the Mexican authorities requires drivers to have proof of financial responsibility in case of an accident even if you are not at fault. I was required to purchase additional insurance. The cost of this policy was $278.00 for a six months period. To add to my Lonely Planet guide to Mexico and a Spanish phrase book I also purchased the Mexico Tourist Road Atlas – a comprehensive book of maps. I then exchanged 100.00 US dollars into Pesos.

At 08:30 on the morning of December 15^th I rode across the border from Nogales, Arizona into Mexico. Although I had prepared for this border crossing and was aware of the documentation authorities required - anxiety and anticipation ran high. As I rode into Mexico I was instructed to proceed via a hand signal from a customs official. This action did not surprise me because I was aware that at kilometre 21 on highway Mex 15 - I would arrive at an immigrations office. But first I would have to ride through this city of 180,000. Nogales is a major transit point between between the two countries with a busy city center. As I proceeded through the downtown I remained very focused on the signage for highway 15 and rode aggressively through the congested traffic. I certainly didn't want to get lost on this morning.

At kilometre 21 - I exited the highway and located a parking spot in a very busy and over crowded parking area. As I walked towards the offices I was approached by individuals who were selling automobile insurance, exchange dollars into Pesos and providing photocopying. I informed them I didn't require any of these services however since they spoke English I was able to get directions to where I should proceed. At the immigrations office I stood in line and waited for my turn to visit with an official. My passport was inspected and I was required to complete a Forma Migratoria Para Turista. Once completed this document was stamped and I was handed a copy. This document is my visa which indicates - as a tourist I can remain in this country for a maximum of 180 days.

From the immigrations office I then had to locate the office where I would be issued a vehicle permit. As I walked pass a young lady – in her broken English - asked if I required photocopies. I once again responded with a “no”. She pointed to my Forma Migratoria Para Turista / visa and stated I'd need a copy of that document if I required a vehicle permit. A photocopy was provided and she indicated which line-up I should join. Within a 3/4 hour it was my turn to speak with an official. Fortunately my documents were in order. I provided the custom official with my passport, vehicle registration, my newly issued visa and a photocopy of each of these documents. For a fee of $323.43 Pesos (approximately $32.00) which was charged to my credit card I was provided a Permiso de Importaction Temporal de Vehiculos / temporary imported vehicle permit. I was instructed to retain this document and return it to the border authorities once I leave the country. Failure to do so would imply I've illegally sold the motorcycle and the appropriate duties and tariffs will be charged to my credit card. I am grateful to the young lady who questioned my photocopy requirements. Had she not questioned the visa photocopy it would have taken me much longer to complete this transaction. My transition through customs when very smoothly compared to some of the stories relayed by other travelers.

With my newly issued documents safely stored I pointed my trusty steed in a southerly direction and rode off onto highway Mex 15 with great excitement as a whole new phase of this adventure is about to unfold.

Highway 15 is a toll highway and within the first ½ hour of the ride I approached a toll booth. The attendant spoke to me as I reached for my wallet. I looked at him - shrug my shoulders and stated no entiendo / I don't understand. I had no I idea what he said nor what the toll charge was so I handed him $ 200.00 Pesos ($20.00 dollars) thinking it would not exceed that amount. I was handed a receipt and a fist full of money which I stuffed in my pocket and rode off. A short time later painted white strips appeared across the width of the highway - the posted speed limit was reduced as the road lead into a small town of Santa Ana. A road sign indicated a tope 200 metres ahead. A tope is a speed bump with a signified rise in the pavement where riders / drivers must approach / cross them at a very slow speed. At these locations it isn't unusual to find people in the middle of the road selling all types of products – one individual had caged birds for sale. Merchants were set-up along the road side. Smoke was rising from a number of grill where food was being prepared. Although it was near lunch time and I could have eaten, the internal drive to move-on over powered the need for nourishment – so I rode on.

All gasoline throughout Mexico is sold by government monopoly Pemex / Petroleos Mexicanos. These stations are common along highway 15 and it was time for me to take-on fuel. As I rode up to the pump an attendant who is there to pump the fuel approached me. I dismounted / set the bike on the centre stand and unlocked the fuel cover. He speaks to me as points to the lower octane nozzle no I responded shaking my head in the international no-mode. I point to higher octane 93 nozzle with more head signals and see. He passes the nozzle to me and I top-up my tank. I remove the money from my pocket - which I had received from the toll booth attendant and proceed to hand him the largest number bill. “No – no” he replies as he pointed to some of the other bill. I extend my hand filled with coins and bills towards him and with a silly grim said “take what you need my friend”. He smiles - picks through my money - take a couple of bills – goes over to the cashier and returns with some coins. I had previously read that it is appropriate to tip the gas pump attendants so I left him with the change. Judging from the facial expressions – I assumed he was very well compensated for his efforts. As I rode off I thought “ I've got to get a handle on this Pesos thing”

Riding south on Mex 15 would take me into the city of Hermosillo a community of 600,000. There is no bypass around this centre - the highway become a series of streets thought the city. Once again all sensory monitoring is placed on high alert and the riding mode to aggressive. I simply can not afford to get lost in this city – fortunately I managed to successfully maneuver through the traffic and find my way back onto the highway without incident.

Another 150 KM and I'll terminate this days ride in the small fishing community of San Carlos. It been a very interesting day and I look forward to enjoying a couple of cold ones. The ride along this divided highway has provided a number of interesting observations – there has been an abundance of large SUVs and shinny 4x4 trucks with California license plates loaded with household good who have passed me well exceeding the post 100 KM/HR – there has been two different military check points in the adjacent north bound lane - I was allowed to proceed through a police check point without being stopped – in some areas along the highway there is a significant drop off from the edge of the pavement (no added width) - a truck towing a loaded utility trailer was parked in the left / passing lane - as I rode by I noticed someone was removing a flat tire.

After exiting the desert highway Mex 15 I rode in a westerly direction to the town of San Carlo which is located on the Golfo de California. As you approach this community one is provided with a refreshing cool sea breeze and a spectacular view of the Bahia (Bay) San Carlos. I located the Hotel Fiesta Real and booked a room for two nights. Although the daily rates for this facility were double those across the road - I elected to stay here because my lonely planet book had provided this establishment with a very good review and I needed a treat.

My stay at the Hotel Fiesta Real was eventually extended to two weeks. It is a great facility with spacious squeaky clean rooms without telephone, radio or television, a large balconies with an unobstructed view of the sea. Good restaurants / bars are within walking distance where they'll concoct a powerful margarita and beers sells for $200 Pesos ($2.00 dollars) a bottle. It is a great location to simply sit back and relax – enjoy walks on uncrowded beaches, learn a few essential Spanish phrases and determine the buying power of coins and Pesos bills. During my stay I finished reading my book - “On the road” an entertaining story by Jack Kerouac which is based on the travels of a group of young men who travel from New York to San Francisco and back a number of times in the late 1940. I selected this book on a recommendation from nephew Tim - A good read it was.

During this Christmas period San Carlos was over taken by Norte Americanos. Because of the large presents of Canadians and Americans in the region the true flavor of this community is lost - English is readily spoken - many of the local residents who work in bars and restaurants speak English - most tourist don't attempt to speak Spanish and some continue to use US dollars. In many aspects this community is almost an extension of Arizona. Because of this large anglo presence my stop over in this community has eased the transition into Mexico - it was easy to meet plenty of friendly people who can answer my many questions. On the negative prospective San Carlos has fallen victim to the Dollar and may have lost it Soul.

Sitting around a bar one evening trading border crossing stories over a couple of cerveza / beer I learned that a fee associated with the Forma Migratoria Para Turista (my travel visa) must be paid if I travel out side the Estado de Sonora (State of Sonora). This payment can be made at the local bank. One afternoon with my Forma Migratoria Para Turista in hand and $220.00 Pesos I walk over to the Banamex. As I walked into this establishment it reminded me of an outpatients / emergency waiting room in a Maritime hospital – lots of people sitting around waiting. Scanning the room I thought “and who'd be next in line to visit with one of the four tellers” who were working behind a wall of Plexiglas. I stood back and observed as the next person entering the bank and walk over to a device which issued her a card. Okay now it's my turn – as I examined this device I determined there were three options and depending on your business transaction you'd select a number to stand in-line to see that particular teller. Since there wasn't a button for Forma Migratoria Para Turista I selected the one which had among other activities listed foreign exchange. “That close enough for me” I thought as I sat and waited for my number to appear on the digital display mounted on the plexiglas wall. Within ½ hour my number appeared and I approached the teller. I slid the $220.00 Pesos with my Forma Migratoria Para Turista through the plexiglas port-hole. The teller speaks to me in Spanish – I once again shrug my shoulders and say “pardon no entiendo” (sorry I don't understand) - the adjacent teller comes to our aid and tells me that payments for the Forma Migratoria Para Turista cannot be accepted after 3 PM and since it now 4 PM this transaction can not be completed. Okay, I now understand the process and I'll return at some later date.

On the evening of December 24^th I joined a group of nine other Gringos for an evening of great food, drinks and tales of the past. An entertaining evening it was with a very interesting group of Canadians & Americans who had traveled to this region in their land yachts and who have no intentions of migrating north until mother nature loosen her winter grip.. It was neat to dress for Christmas dinner in short sleeves and sandals – to share pre dinner drinks on an outdoor balcony over looking the sea. Although stuffed turkey was on this evenings selective dinner menu I enjoyed a great Pescado a la Plancha / Grilled Fish which was delicious. A number of glasses of champagne were consumed over the evening as I learned about the exploits of my new friends. A parade of large silhouetted power and sailboats sail by - their strings of dancing lights reflected from the glassy surface. Fire work were launched from the beach below and the sky explodes with red, yellow and orange. As the evening came to a close we all agreed to meet the following evening at Bob and Carol's RV for round of refreshments. Another great day this has been in the life of the saddle tramp.

Special thanks to those who forwarded Christmas Wish – It always nice to hear from you..

Los Marinas de San Carlos - Ninety nine percent of the floating real estate in this marina belong to the Gringos.

The blog's author working in sweat-shop like conditions preparing a blog entry. Is there pity out there?

The rugged landscape of Costa Bella – San Carlos.

The Tetakawi Mountains are said to have fortified the spirits of the ancient native worriers.

The rugged landscape of Costa Bella – San Carlos.

The rugged landscape of Costa Bella – San Carlos.

The twin-peaked Cerro Tetakawi. For those who remember the movie Catch 22 – This is where the filming occurred - these are the peaks where the airplane was crashed.

A view from the balcony of my very comfortable accommodations at Hotel Fiesta Real.

A late December stroll on an tropical isolated beach is a strange phenomenon for this Maritimer.

Pelicans feed on a school of needle fish. As an attractive water fowl these creatures would fall into the sea gull category but they are an interesting bird to observe.

San Carlos an oasis where the desert meets the sea.

Mexico 1

Ola y Feliz Navadad
Hello and Merry Christmas
A brief update. I've arrived in Mexico on December 15 having crossed the border from Nogales Arizona. I am presently in a small fishing town of San Carlos approximately 350 KM from the border. This is a beautiful region located on the "Golfo de Calfornia" or what we'd call the Sea of Cortes. The weather as you'd expect is awesome. I am staying in some very comfortable beachfront accommodations with a great balcony view of the sea / By far these are the best accommodations of the journey /I needed a treat. I plan to remain in this area for a few weeks. I require some down time to adapt to the culture, the currency, the food which I've enjoyed to date and to learn a few Spanish phrase. I'll provide a more detailed update in the next week. Internet service is rare in the region.

Arizona II

The past two weeks in Arizona have been relatively easy with more down time then time in the saddle. I had a great visit to "The Town too Tough to Die," Tombstone. I remained in this historic community for two days and enjoyed roaming the streets and learning about it's colorful history and characters.

A walking down Allen Street - it isn't hard to imagine how the town must have looked back in the glory days of the old west. Near one end of this street is the famous Bird Cage Theater standing much as it did over 100 years ago. In the 1880s it was not only a theater but also served as a saloon, a gambling hall and brothel. It was open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. The Bird Cage was the scene for twenty-six deaths during its eight years of business. Today a visitor can walk through the museum and soak in the history of this interesting old place. Historic figures such as Wyatt Earp, Doc Holliday, and Bat Masterson once walked on these very floorboards.

In the opposite part of town is the location of the gunfight at the O.K. Corral. A gunfight which has been portrayed in numerous films. Its importance is that it has come to symbolize the struggle between law-and-order and open-banditry and rustling in frontier towns of the old west where law enforcement was often thin.

One evening I had dinner at Big Nose Kate's Saloon (her claim to fame was the fact that she was Doc Holliday's girlfriend). I was very surprised to find Moosehead Lager beer was on-tap in this establishment. I questioned the barmaid about it's popularity – to which she indicated it was one of the more popular brands. She was equally surprised when I informed her that this product was imported from New Brunswick, Canada.

From Tombstone I moved on to Tucson and Phoenix. Although I enjoyed my stay in both of these large centers I much prefer the surrounding of the smaller and rural communities.

In Phoenix I stopped by Jesse Luggage Systems to complete repairs to my luggage boxes. These boxes and the mounting hardware had been damaged during a fall on the Dempster Highway in Canada's Yukon. Although temporary repairs had been completed in Dawson City further adjustments were required from the manufacturer. Here, I was provided with very good service from Allen and Neil. Some of mounting hardware was removed from the bike and placed in the jigs for proper alignment. The boxes and covers were reshaped, latching mechanism adjusted and gaskets replaced. Although close inspection of these boxes will reveal evidence of a spill their function has been restored to 100 percent. A satisfied customer I am. Following the repairs I was provided with a tour of this busy facilities.

While in Phoenix I also completed the 40,000 KM service on the motorcycle and had new tires installed at BMW Motorcycles of Scottsdale.

The motorcycle's registration was to expire in early 2007. I was able to renew and pay for this document on-line via Services New Brunswick website. The document was forward to my mailing address in Fredericton, New Brunswick. My good buddy Gerry then forwarded the package general delivery to the post office in Red Rock, Arizona. On December 12^th I took delivery of the package. To my good friends Mike and Bernie at SNB – “the system works”..

A visit to Jesse Luggage Systems in Glendale / Phoenix. Allen and Neil make the necessary repairs to the Luggage Boxes which were damaged in August when the moto and I went down on the Dempster (Dumster) Highway in Canada's north. Learn more about Jesse Luggage Systems www.jesseluggage.com

The saguaro is the largest cactus in the USA commonly reaching a height of 12 metres and an age of up to 200 years. It is common in southern Arizona and extending into western Sonora (Mexico).

The name Boot Hill comes from the fact that many of these graves were filled with people that died suddenly or violently with their boots on. The burial ground still contains the remains of the bad guys and good guys who populated the Old West, so there's considerable historical significance associated with the small patch of rocky ground.

John Heath was taken from the county jail and lynched by a mob in Tombstone on February 22, 1884. Heath was the alleged leader of a gang who shot up a store in nearby Bisbee during an armed robbery in December, 1883.

The graves that elevated Boot Hill to its place in infamy as a theme for Western movies, cowboy novels and shoot'em-up lore are those of Billy Clanton and the McLaury brothers, Frank and Tom victims in the renowned Gunfight at the O.K. Corral. The marker denoting their graves notes that they were "murdered on the streets of Tombstone, 1881."

The alleged murderers were the Earps - Wyatt, Virgil and Morgan - and John "Doc" Holliday, none of whom ever served jail time for the alleged murders, probably because Virgil Earp was the Tombstone marshal and reportedly had recruited the others as special deputy policemen.

This is Sgt. Jeffery Howard a police officer by profession but in his spare time dresses in-period costume and volunteer's as an historian. I had a very interesting discussion with Jeff who was able to answer my many questions regarding the wild west.

Tombstone, the "town to tough to die" is known for its famous lawmen / infamous outlaws and the Gunfight at the OK Corral.

The court yard scaffold is a replica of the 1880's version A much larger structure was erected for the five men Dan Dowd, Red Sample, Tex Howard, Bill Delaney and Dan Kelly. They were "legally hanged, March 8, 1884." After being found guilty of killing several people during a robbery in Bisbee. All were hanged on a single scaffold in the Tombstone Courthouse yard. A single large grave at Boot Hill is the resting place for these individuals.

Tombstone's court house was restored to its original condition and became a state historic park. Along with artifacts of the court building, it also displays many other relics from early Tombstone.

Bird Cage Theater standing much as it did over 100 years ago. In the 1880s it was not only a theater but also served as a saloon, a gambling hall and brothel.

Canyon Lake is located within the rugged terrain of the northeastern Sonoran Desert on route 88 east of Phoenix. This lake was formed by damming the Salt River.

Bulletin

Introducing Ryan Jamie Allard born in Ottawa on November 23rd - Proud parents are Tara and number one son Daryl. A grandfather I become – Very good news that is..