British Columbia I

On Monday August 14^th I located the Cassiar Highway and rode out of the Yukon and into British Columbia. This route provided some awesome scenery through Glacier covered mountains and rain forest. It was a full days ride with the weather along the way forever changing – heavy rain – sunshine – heavy rain – sunshine.. There were two thirty KM sections of unsealed road both of which were in the heavy rain weather pattern. This section was basically mud – It was fun to ride this stuff but did I have one filthy bike at the end of the day.

I rode to the coastal town of Stewart and located the camping area to settle in for the night. Three other bikers had set-up in the same area – I walked over for a visit and met Stephen and Bruno from Switzerland they had shipped their bikes to LA and have been touring the west coast of Canada and the US. A third rider from Calgary Al had met them a few days ago and the three were now riding together. They told me about seeing Grizzly's feeding on the salmon which were heading up river to spawn. They were to return to the same site at 6 AM the following morning. I was invited to join them.

We left the camp site a 6 AM and crossed into Hyder, Alaska. At 10 minute ride took us to observation deck. Which was constructed on the banks of a small river. Here I witnessed on of a most amazing natural activities.. Salmon were heading up river to spawn. This section of river was at it's end – The salmon could not proceed any further beyond this point. Here the female salmon would turn on their side and frantically whip the river bottom with their tail in order to create a cavity to lay their eggs. The male salmon would battle each other for the rights to provide the sperm to fertilize the eggs. While all of this was happening grizzly, bald eagles and sea gulls were having a feast. All of this was transpiring within 10 metres of where I was standing. I observed a grizzly catching a salmon – hold it in his mouth and headed for the river bank – the salmon was fighting to escape - on the river bank the salmon was dropped – the bear placed it's left front paw and with it's teeth tore a section from the side of the salmon – the bear lifted it's paw and the salmon escaped into the river to complete it mission before it would die. It was simply amazing to witness such an activity. Once these large mature salmon completed the spawning process they would die.

We left this area and went for breakfast. Over coffee,toast and eggs we decided we should ride to Salmon Glacier. We'd follow a dirt road through the mountains along edge of cliffs which dropped 100 or more metre to the bottom below. The early morning sun was bright and high in the sky thus providing for some amazing colours and views. We made a number of stops along the way to admire the view before we reached the base of the glacier. The ride was rather bumpy but most enjoyable. We arrived at an abandon copper mine. A helicopter was parked off to the side. We rode over to chat with the pilot. Al assumed he must be in the tour business and asked if we could get a ride. The pilot explained that he was with a mining exploration group and was not in the tour business. However if we wanted a short ride up to glacier he'd take us.

What a blast this turned out to be. The control this man had over this machine was remarkable. The ride was as smooth a silk which made it all the more thrilling. We slowly made our way up the glacier and hovered at the top near the mountain face. He took us over to a different section where we observed the large crevasses in the glacier. He then banked the aircraft hard to port side and leveled out at 10 metres above the glacier and raced over the top of the snow to the bottom. What a rush!!! This is the next best thing to skiing.

What a day we're having – we seen see grizzles feeding on salmon – we rode along edge of cliffs to a remote glaciers – we've rode in a helicopter to the top of a glacier and it's not noon yet.

My ride south over the next couple of days was somewhat uneventful. The temperature was noticeable increasing and so was the traffic. The day light hours was substantially shorter - I had rode out of the mountains so the scenery was not as spectacular – I am missing the North already.

Riding towards the community of Williams Lake a vehicle with New Brunswick license plates overtook me – all of the occupants waved as they went by. Later that evening I stopped at the grocery store, while there an individual approached me. He had noticed my parked bike and the riding jacket I was carrying. He was the operator of the N.B. Vehicle. As it turned out he was an RCMP constable who had recently transferred from Woodstock, N.B. to this region. He also is the brother of a good friend and once co-worker. How cool is that!!!

I camped in Williams Lake a very clean and picturesque community - the home town of Rick Hanson / Man in Motion. The following morning I chatted with the park attendant. He recommended I ride to Bella Coola. I was unaware of this community. But with a name like that it's gotta be special. It was a 5 ½ hour ride west of Williams Lake through a region known as the Cariboo Chilcoton Valley. The road crossed the mighty Fraser River where the landscape changer completely. I had entered the Chilcoton Plateau. Grasslands covered part of this region known as the Becher Prairie characterized by sagebrush, grasses and prickly pear cactus.. These grasslands are in the shadow of the coastal mountains which causes their summers to be hot and dry.

Approximately 100 KM of this route is unsealed but in relatively good condition. The true high lite of this ride was what the locals refer to as “the hill”. The hill is actually Hickmans Pass – a 16 KM ride down the mountain along narrow single lanes of switch backs cut along the edge of the cliff with grades in excess of 18%. The road surface although dirt was in excellent condition. It is by far the most exciting hill ride I've completed to date.

My two day stay in Bella Coola and the adjacent community of Hagenborg (founded by Norwegians in the late 1800's) was most enjoyable. I managed to complete some hiking trails, sit at the river's edge and once again watch the salmon proceed through the spawning cycle and then die - “Spawn til you Die” Truly Amazing.

I camped for two night in a very picturesque park at the forest edge. On Friday evening August 18^th a fellow camper came by to tell me he had just seen a bear passed through the area next to his site. He had talked to the camp owner Carl about the sighting. Carl then requested him to stop by my site (because I was the only other person in a tent) to let tell me what had transpired and ensure my food was properly stored.

My approach to this whole bear thing is this.. Ensure that the camping area's are clean. Properly store you food and an number of other precautions - etc... When one considers the number of people killed by bears in North America over the past 25 years and compares that statistic to the number kill in motorcycle accidents..I consider the odds to be in my favor in my tent even in bear country.

I returned to Williams Lake on Saturday August 19 and remained in this community until Monday. Sunday was a easy day. I went to Canadian Tire (only place in town open on Sunday) to change the oil in the bike and later sat around a very pretty downtown park and worked on the blog / off line...The following morning I rode to the ski resort area of Sun Peaks. This is one of the few of the larger ski resorts in Canada which I have not skied but it's on my to do list. I booked a room in the local hostel and went out for a few cool ones and dinner.

This roof comes with a lawn mower and life time warranty – some leakage my be expected.

At this location I had experienced a change in the weather. The rain had recently stopped and the sun broke through rain clouds to provide an spectacular setting – Mother Nature the Artist

More of Mother Nature the Artist.

We rode along a dirt road some of which was cut from the cliffs edge to Salmon Glacier – The scenery along the way was amazing.

The back drop is Salmon Glacier – Al from Calgary, Bruno & Stephen from Switzerland and Jimbo

Bruno and Stephan display a little excitement about our pending ride in this machine.

We're back on solid ground – What an amazing ride we've had – we offered the pilot $80.00 but he wouldn't accept it – He was content with knowing that he had given us something very special.

In Smithers I followed the signage down a dirt road to Twin Falls.. Some 10 KM of canopy cover trees – I am loving this off road stuff – The view at Twin Falls was equally pretty.

The fishing fleet in Bella Coola Harbour – The sea, boats and mountains are but some of my favorites comfort ingredients.

My Pad in Bella Coola Valley.

A taste of the road through Hitckman Pass in to Bella Coola Valley.

This photo location is at the top of Hitckman Pass – The clearing through the trees is the part of the road through the mountain. It is a 16 KM ride to the bottom - It is referred too as “The Hill” by local residents but to this outsider it's definitely a mountain.

The Chilcoton Plateau - Grasslands covered part of this region known as the Becher Prairie characterized by sagebrush, grasses and prickly pear cactus.. These grasslands are in the shadow of the coastal mountains which causes their summers to be hot and dry.

Grizzly's feeding on salmon in Hyder, Alaska – It was difficult to get good photo's in the early morning light.

Alaska

I met-up with John in Dawson City on August 01. He had ridden solo from Peterborough, Ontario and was to meet-up with his spouse Heather who was flying into Anchorage on August 04. They would then tour Alaska, Yukon and BC together. John would later drop Heather off in Calgary following their tour she would then fly home. John would continue on to Peterborough solo.
John and I left together from Dawson City on August 02 and rode into Alaska through Chicken, Tok, Glennallen, Palmer and arrived in Anchorage (Population 250,000) on August 04. We booked a room at the local hotel. John went off to find Heather at the airport while I left to locate a place where I could change the oil in my moto. I stopped by a rental location which had an extensive selection of adventure motorcycles parked outdoors. They indicated that they were extremely busy because these bike required service today before they were issued to new riders the following morning. They provided me with directions to the local BMW dealer. I rode over to the dealer thinking I would be happy if they provided me with an oil pot and a location outdoors where I could change my oil. I approached the service manager with my request. He told me to leave the keys in the bike and they take it right-in to change the oil and give it a thorough inspection. I was extremely impressed with the service I was provided and was very grateful. The manager indicated they make an effort to accommodate travelers. This left a very good impression considering the dealer in Winnipeg told me I'd have to wait three week for an appointment.
The following morning we ride off to tour the Kenai Peninsula. This is a very scenic region. Our ride took us along Glacier covered mountains following the coast of Cooks Inlet to the resort town of Homer.
A point of interest .These waters were charted by Captain James Cook in the mid 1700's. I am extremely impressed with this man. He has also charted the west coast of Canada, New Zealand and Australia aboard his very small sailing ship “The Endeavor” .
Traffic is noticeable heavy compared to what we've been used to. There are simply to many tourist in this town – It's good to move on. We locate a dirt road which crosses the peninsula into the coastal town of Seward for a night of camping. There is a sign attached to the picnic table at our camp site which reads. “Bears have been seen in the area – Properly store your food”..One becomes accustom to these warnings – This is bear country – That's the way it is. It's great to be sleeping outdoors. It has now become the accommodations of choice.
The following day we'll ride to the coastal town of Whittier where we will board a ferry for a six and a half hour crossing of the beautiful Prince William Sound to town of Valdez. Two more days of riding will get us to Whitehorse where I will stop for three day of R and R. John and Heather would continue on with their tour. It was a great week of riding – I did enjoy both John and Heather's company..
I rode over to the camping area within the city limits and was provided a site to set up camp. Within a half hour the lady from the site office was making her rounds telling campers she had received a call from the local conservation officer reporting that a bear and two of her cubs where spotted outside the camp area. For your own safety do not to approach the bears if you see them, ensure your food is properly secure and keep your camp site clean. The bears weren't in the camping mood – they didn't stop to visit.
I rode out of Whitehorse on August 12th and headed to Skagway for lunch and a quick tour. This community is located 160 KM south of Whitehorse on the narrow Lynn Canal a channel which leads inland from the Pacific Ocean. This remote thriving community with upscale shops and paved streets is fueled by the cruise ship industry. The Klondike National Historic Park and the Chilkook Pass National Historic Site are located in this region.

This action shot provided by John on the Top of the World roadway.

It's great to be in Alaska. Note John's bike parked in the mud..You guys with all that shinny chrome on your bikes would appreciate that.

The John Wade gold dredge new Boundary, Alaska.

The Saloon at Chicken, Alaska. This was a very interesting place with a great selection of beer and very good food. We camped in Chicken – because we filled up with fuel $7.00 camping was free – A gravel pit c/w an outhouse and diesel generator which ran all night.

John assumes the role of the flag-man as the flag-lady completed the photographer's duties. The three Amigo's in the rear are Kevin, Frank and Kevin

Early morning 08:00 (that early for me) on the summit of Mount Eureka. We crawled out of our sleeping bags to a chilly 5 degrees C – We got to find some hot coffee.

Somewhere on the Kenai Peninsula.

Hamming it up at the base of Exit Glacier on the Kenai peninsula.

Portage Glacier near Whittier on the Kenai peninsula

The ferry we sailed to cross the extremely scenic Prince William Sound. It was great to be on the water again.

A view from the deck of the ferry.

A view from the deck of the ferry.

These ice pieces have broken free from the Glaciers.

John and Heather @ Whitehorse – They are off to continue their tour of the Yukon and BC.

The North Part II

I rode into Inuvik on Sunday evening and had a quick tour of the town. I stopped by to check out the camping area where I met Jim a rider from Calgary who had arrive in this community a few hours before I did. I then decided to check into a hotel for the night. A good night sleep would be required for the ride back to Eagle Plains in the morning.

By 08:00 hrs I was ready to commence my ride south. I've had breakfast, topped up my fuel supply and added a few extra pounds of air to bring my tire pressure up to their maximum rating. While I was leaving the community I met Kevin, Frank and Kevin three adventure riders from Orangeville Ontario. I met these riders an number of times on my ride North yesterday. I was invited to join them for breakfast – but I passed for I was keen to commence my ride.

This half of the road south is in extremely poor condition. Within the first half hour I came upon a accident scene. An SUV had left the road and overturned. Other motorist had arrived on the scene before I did. I stopped and asked if I could be of assistance. I was informed everyone was okay and there was nothing I could do so I proceeded on my way. I was very much enjoy my ride. This area is beautiful with an abundance of wild life. Although one must continuously monitor the varying road conditions thus leaving little time to scan for wild life I did seen plenty of ptarmigan, a few foxes and a bear.

I was surprised to see a number of cyclist on this road. I stopped to chat with a young couple who were having lunch. The told me about one of their saddle-bags being being stolen by a wolf last night – they never did recover it . They asked if I had see any bear – I reluctantly shared my sighting. They told me that they chatted with someone who had taken a photo of a muskox. Wow that's amazing I'd love to see one of those. I wish them both well and rode on.

The sky was changing, rain clouds were up ahead. I had been told that this road can be disastrous when wet. Because of the large amounts of calcium used on this road rain will turn the mud into a sludge / slurry and the riding will become horrendous. I had met a number of riders who were returning home following their tour of the North who rode this road in the rain. They talked about riding in first and second gear dragging their feet in a attempt to remain upright only to have the bike slide out from under them and down they'd go into the sludge. This tale I heard over and over again. One adventure rider told me “if your going to ride the Dempster take a picture of your bike because it will never be the same after the ride”. I did get a chuckle over that comment. But little did I realize it would soon come back to haunt me..

I had crossed the border from the Northwest Territories into the Yukon. Another 20 KM will have me at the Arctic Circle and 40 KM beyond that is where I'd end my ride for the day. I was looking forward to a couple of cold ones and some supper. I was ridding at 80 + KM along the open tundra follow a very narrow track in the road where the gravel had been cleared by vehicle traffic. I rode up over a hill and rounded a bend. There I was hit with a very heavy gust of wind (much like the wind on the Prairies). I was blown out of my cleared path and into heavy gravel and rocks. I had experienced riding in heavy gravel plenty of times in the past 1000 KM and always manged to ride out of it. This time it wasn't to be. The bike started to oscillate which will happen when ridding in gravel. But this time I couldn't ride out of it. The oscillations only became amplified and down we went hard on the left side. I went down with the bike but at some point we parted and I was project through the air and landed on my back on the soft tundra. “This can't be good” I thought as I lay there on my back.. I quickly realized I was not injured and got up to check my beloved motorcycle. There it lay resting on the road's embankment which lead down to the tundra. It was pointing North that's were I was coming from. The bike appeared to have weather the fall pretty good. The left aluminum Jesse luggage box was severely damaged. It had taken the brunt of the fall. The right box had broken free from the bike and my belongs were scattered along the road.

For a moment I thought “that a fine mess you've got yourself into – why can't you be like most others and be content to stay home get out of bed in the morning, put on the coffee and sit back - reading the paper” -- All right “enough of that shit” We got to deal with this!! I picked-up my scattered belongs and stuffed them back into the box. A close inspection revealed that one of the boxes attaching mechanisms had sheered off. This box will require some other method to secure it in place before I can ride. The second box was badly banged-up. The hinged cover had opened on impact thus causing the box to collapse when we touched down – the cover on the other had was not damaged.

I had plenty of time to ponder the situation although my focus may not have been very good because the adrenaline was running very high. Within 45 minutes an SUV with two men heading north approached me and stopped. They were concern about my well being. I assured them I was okay and asked if they'd help to get the bike back onto the road. The driver indicated he could secure a rope onto the bike and haul it up onto the road – to which I responded with hesitation “No F—cking Way”... The other individual went down onto the tundra and noticed what appeared to be a ramp like path which lead back to the road. We then simply stood the bike upright and pushed it backwards onto the road then placed it on it side stand.

At this point the three adventure riders I had chatted with before I departed this morning arrived on the scene. These guys were a tremendous help. With level heads and know how - we soon had the bike running again – the damaged bag secure to the bike. As we started to ride the rain began and fortunately we made our way to Eagle Plains without incident.

I checked into my room and then went to find the Kevin, Frank and Kevin who were having supper. I was extremely grateful for their assistance. These guys then got onto their bikes and rode out to Dawson City in the rain.

What a positive effect a good night sleep will provide. The following morning I awoke ready for the new challenge – “I've gotta get this stuff repaired”. I first requested a large garbage bag from the kitchen staff – then with duct tape I carried with my tool supplies I was able to seal the severely damaged box from the elements. I then rearranged the straps to secure the other box – with the bungy cords and the cargo net I was carrying I soon had my load well secure and ready to ride the next 367 KM back to civilization and hopefully some help.

It had rained through the night and into the morning. The road reported indicated the first 100 KM south is very muddy while the remaining 267 KM is better. They also stated the road north is fogged in – the rain continues in that region – and the road conditions are extremely poor. I thought about those poor cyclist!!

I also learned that Jim the biker from Calgary who I had met in Inuvik had also arrived last evening. He was delayed and got caught in heavy rain. As he approached Eagle Plains his bike had slid out from under him in the sludge and he went down hard. Although he was in very good spirits he was hurting - he had a nasty bruise on his right shoulder and he assumed it was dislocated or his collar bone was broken. He stated he had rode the bike around the parking lot this morning and it didn't feel to bad. He wasn't sure if he'd ride out today. I indicated I would wait to ensure the rain had stopped before I would ride south and that I'd check with him before I left.

A couple of hours later I went back to check on Jim. I offered to ride out with him – but he had decided he'd stay to rest for another day. So off I went. There were parts of the ride back to Dawson City which was challenging but it was equally fun.

When I reached the highway and pavement I noticed a bike had come up behind me. It appeared to be another GS... It followed me into Dawson City where I noticed the three bikes which belong to my buddies who help out after the crash. I parked in the same location and so did the other biker. We chatted a bit and I indicated I was off to locate these three characters and invited him to come along.

All five of us when out for a few beer and a very good supper. It was good to exchange war stories and to laugh about the events of the past day or so. Because of the pending rain John the rider who'd followed me into town and I decided we'd share a room for the night.

While we were at the pub I went over to chat with one of the local residents and asked if he knew of an automotive body repair shop where I could repair my aluminum Jesse luggage boxes. He wasn't sure about a body shop but suggested I should contact “Versatile Hank” I'd find him in the phone book.

I call Hank at 08:00 the following morning. Apparently Hank is off for medical reasons but Glen says he's willing to have a look at the boxes. John and I ride over to find Glen. As my luck would have it – Glen turns out to be a very soft spoken / kind man who is extremely skilled with tools. Both John and I had installed the mounting hardware and boxes on our bikes and we both understand how much of a challenge it was to get them on properly. These boxes and their mounting hardware have been damaged and they must be dismantled. These components have taken all of the abuse when the bike and I went down. The only damage to the motorcycle was a broken mirror on the left side. It is simply amazing the abuse these boxes have taken. They saved me from injury and prevented the bike from damage.

Over the next three hours the hardware and boxes are reshaped and refitted.. I am extremely impressed and very pleased with the results of our efforts.. Glen stated “it is a good thing you purchased quality boxes because there is no way we could have done this inferior components” - Mr. Jesse you sure make good boxes.. I am please I paid the extra buck and purchased quality.

I then reload my bike... John and I met for lunch / supper in Dawson City. We then set off to ride the “top of the world highway” another dirt road. This road was built over the mountain tops from Dawson City to Tok, Alaska. It's raining in the mountains but this road is like a freeway compared to the Dempster. I love riding this stuff – boys still enjoy playing in the mud – only these days our toys are different. It beautiful up here and I am having a blast..

We arrive at the tiny community of Little Gold Creek located at latitude 141 degrees. This community is the most westerly point in Canada beyond here is the US border and Alaska. It is at this point where I have reached another very significant milestone. I have now rode a motorcycle to the four corners of this great land of ours. I have ridden to Cape Spear, Newfoundland in the east and to Little Gold Creek, Yukon to the west. I have ridden to the end of the Dempster Highway to Inuvik in the Northwest Territories and onto Ontario's Peelee Island to the south.. Another proud moment in this awesome Journey...

This section of the Dempster Highway is the pass through Ogilvie Mountain Range

Ridding south on the Dempster heading into the Richardson mountains..

The Dempster wilderness route crosses the tundra. It was very exciting to ride across this very unique landscape.

More of the Richardson Mountains..

The Dempster's Tombstone Territorial Park.

Kevin, Frank and Kevin – These adventure riders from Orangeville, Ontario were on a 4 week tour of the Yukon, Alaska and BC.. They were instrumental in getting me back on the road following my little mishap..

This Jesse luggage box (left side) was extensively damaged when the moto and I touched down on the Dempster (Dumpster) Highway

The right luggage box – one of the attaching mechanism was sheered off and an alternate attachment method was required.. This worked very well...

Glen utilizes a pinch bar to reshape the aluminum box – the truck did budge a mm.

With the help of a rubber mallet Glen make a couple of fine adjustments..

Mission accomplished – A job well done.. John and Glen - these guys were a tremendous help. I was amazed that these boxes were restored without a major overhaul - even their waterproof capabilities have been maintained.

The smile says it all.. These are the conditions that make life interesting. Forty Eight hours ago I was sitting on the tundra 20 KM north of the Arctic Circle alone with a motorcycle that was down and out.. Today all is well and I met some great people who have helped me through the process. “Life is Good”

Note the wooden board walks and the gravel streets.. That's my buddy John up ahead with the Yellow riding jacket.

A walk through Dawson City feels as if you've turn back the pages of time .

Dawson City is the heart of the Klondike Gold Rush - An incredible community that has preserved its past.

The top of the World Highway is a dirt road which runs from Dawson City, Yukon to Tok, Alaska - This road would probably make it to the list of top 10 most scenic ride - a blast to ride it was.

The top of the world highway – and we're off to find those switch-backs.. I had regularly questioned my decision to purchase the GS as opposed to a touring motorcycle. I no longer ponder such thoughts - This is my element - I love riding off road and this is the GS's domain.

The North

My stay in Edmonton was most enjoyable special thanks to Steve and Patty for being very good host and sharing their beautiful home. I departed that provincial capital city on Monday July 24th and set out for the Yukon. It would be a three day ride through Alberta and Northern BC before I would cross it's border into the community of Watson Lake. This remote stretch of BC is basically wilderness except for the communities of Dawson Creek, Fort St. John and Fort Nelson. Logging and Oil / Gas are the principal resources of these vibrant remote communities..

There are plenty of bikers up here. On a rainy Tuesday afternoon I stopped for fuel (one must be extremely conscious of their fuel level because filling opportunities are infrequent) there I encountered two riders. Mike from Spokane who was riding a Honda African Twin and Bob a Texan was riding an R-1200-GS – it was almost identical to my bike - the same colour -the Jesse boxes – a 2005 model also heavily loaded. It was fun to ride with these guys for a few hours to my destination in Fort Nelson where I was fortunate to locate one of the last remaining rooms - At last shelter from the rain.

The rain continued through the night and into the morning. I contemplated keeping the motel room for an additional day but I opted to suit-up and ride out-of-town through the rain. It turned out to be one of the best decisions I made in sometime. Because on this day I experienced an awesome adventure – I seen some amazing wildlife along the route. This is how the adventure unfolded. The rain continuously off and on along this final 550 KM of wilderness through Northern BC. I first encountered signage along the route warning of caribou on the road.. Within 10KM I was treated to my first encounter with these animals. There were three of them on the highway. I came to a stop and admired them from a distance. They didn't move so I proceeded slowly towards them. I came within three or four metres before they walk off the road and into the bush. That was great I thought but I should have taken a photo.. Within five KM I encountered five more caribou. This time I took photo's from a distance and slowly rode up close to them – they then rush off into the bush.
Within an hour the signage had changed this time the warning was for sheep on the road. I was not to be disappointedly. I came across two of these animals feeding along the side of the road. Once again I stopped for a distance photo and proceeded slowly towards them only to have them dart off up the side hill and into the trees.

My next encounter was even more rewarding. I had hoped I would see some of the animals along my travels but I had never dreamed I would see them so soon, see so many of them and see them up so close. These are the Buffalo – so ugly they are but equally beautiful and massive. I can across a herd of fifty or more scattered over a twenty Kilometre stretch of this highway. When I seen the first one I was ride through heavy rain and from a distance I had no idea what it was. I slowed and rode passed as it simply strolling down the shoulder of the highway. Wow - I gotta get a photo of that - I pulled-up a safe distance ahead of him – got out my camera – turned the bike around and rode up passed him only to turn around and ride slowly by him again for the third time. This time I am riding within two metres from him. I am moving along at about 10 km/hr the clutch on the bike is disengaged with my left hand while my throttle hand holds the camera off to the side and my index finger frantically pulses the button in hope of finding this monster in that little squared window. I am extremely excited about this and over the next 30 minutes I have ample opportunity to stop and admire these beautiful creatures – and ride by many within a three or four metre distance.
There is still more to come. My next encounter was even more spectacular. I am aware that there are a number of these guys around. I knew that they would probably see me - however I didn't think I'd see them - but that changed today.. I rode up over hill only to find two vehicles parked on the side of the road approximately 500 Metres ahead of me. The vehicle occupants were scanning the side hill off in my direction. I slowed and soon noticed it - a large brown bear up on the hill was strolling along the tree line. Wow – that's incredible. I had no intentions of trying to get a photo - This guy is king in this domain.. He soon turned and headed off into the bush. I rode up to the vehicles - stopped and chatted about over good fortune - was it a brown bear or a grizzly. We'll never know but it was an experience I'll never forget.

These encounters has been an incredible experience – truly amazing. I continue my ride onward only to notice a new warning sign. This time it a warning about horse on the highway. Sure enough with ten minutes down the road I come across a herd of 30 or more grazing along an area allocated for trucks to install chains for winter driving. I slow to admire view – there was no need for a photo – Nature has provided me with a tremendous gift today. This has turned out to be one of the most amazing motorcycle rides ever.

The following day I awoke to more rain and set out on the final stretch to Whitehorse, the Yukon's capital city. Before leaving Watson Lake I stopped to take on fuel. I then attempted to pay for this service with my visa card only to have the transaction denied. A second swipe of the card confirmed my fears – it ain't workin.. I thought “the problem maybe with this particular outlet” so I paid with cash and moved on. A couple of hours later I stopped for lunch and more fuel - Once again my trustworthy visa card was denied access. “Is there a public phone nearby” I ask. After being placed on hold for fifteen minutes or more and hearing “your call is important to us please hold for the next available operator” a number of times I finally get to talk to Eric. He informs me my account has been frozen due to a number of suspicious activities i.e. a recent change of address, an incorrect telephone number and an irregular pattern of transactions. In order to reactivate my account I must report to an affiliated bank with plenty of ID - the bank will then contact visa. Eric then tell me there is a branch in Whitehorse.

I ride into that Capital City by 17:00 hrs and located a very nice travel information center. I collect my brochures and make arrangements for a bed for the night. A biker approaches me a says “Are you riding that BMW out there” to which I respond affirmatively “so your the guy who taken a year off to ride” - I was really surprised with this comment – I guess this riding community is much smaller then I had assumed - I meet and chat with bikers – he meets and chats with bikers and the word gets out. Amazing.
The following morning I rode down to the bank and tell my story to Judy a very helpful customer service lady. After verifying my I.D. and a lengthly discussion with the visa people my card is re-established. This whole process was somewhat of an inconvenience but when compared to what could have happened if other had access to my card this was minor.
I locate the Klondike highway and ride North towards Dawson City along the way I notice a sign “Fort Selkirk Boat Tours”. I turn off the highway onto a road which leads to the Yukon River. At this location sits the beautiful log cabin office of “Big Rivers Enterprises”. I am soon greeted by Heinz and Ted. They had completed their river tours for the day and were enjoying a beverage. I am invited in for one of the same. Because I am riding I must pass on that offer. For the next 1 ½ hours I sit and visit with the two very interesting transplanted Yukoners. A nice encounter it was.

I arrived in Dawson City on Saturday the 29th and proceed to investigate some of the tourist attractions. I stop by the information center to question about riding the Dempster Highway. I was told that the weather forecast for the next five day is excellent. It's a no brainer - time to go. First I take on fuel and make my to Tombstone Park approximately 75 KM up the highway to camp overnight. The following morning I am off to ride this gravel and crushed stone road which extends 742 km to Inuvik an Inuit village 325 km above the Arctic Circle in the Northwest Territories. This wilderness route will crosses the Arctic Circle and span the remote regions of the Yukon cutting through two mountain ranges the Ogilvie and Richardson Mountains, then follow miles of stunted spruce and alder "forests" (8'-12' tall), and cross the treeless tundra it will require two ferry crossings over the Peel and Mackenzie Rivers before arriving in Inuvit.

It was amazing ride yet extremely demanding. The highway's surface conditions varied from very good to extremely poor. It does test both the rider and the motorcycle. I had two concerns – the first is fuel – I would require a riding range of 367 KM since I am not packing an extra fuel container – The second concern are my tires - although newly installed in Edmonton they are at risk of damage from the abusive surface.
I was extremely impressed with my fuel consumption on the Dempster Highway. I easily covered the 367 KM without switching to the reserve supply of gasoline. When I did stop for fuel at Eagle Plains I purchased 15.5 litres to cover that distance – this I considered excellent.

The tires did survive the distance but I did carry with me a tire repair kit and other repair components in the event of a failure.

I completed this ride in one day over an eleven hour period. It was a dream come through - I had pondered this ride for a year or more and now I have ridden it. Word cannot describe the tremendous sense of accomplishment to stand at the Arctic Circle – to ride from the Yukon into the Northwest Territories – to ride across the tundra – to cross the MacKenzie River and finally to ride Into Inuvik – I've done it.

My plan was to stay in Inuvik for a couple of day and catch a flight to Tuktoyahtuk. Unfortunately the flight (light aircraft) was booked for the next couple of days and the weather forecast was for rain. I decided my stay in Inuvik would be over night. I'd ride out of town in the morning.

More on the Dempster to follow...

Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway at Dawson Creek, B.C.

These sheep were grazing along the Alaska Highway. We later seen more of these in Alaska making their way along the edge of cliffs high above the highway.

It was amazing to ride by this big guy - I am moving along at about 10 km/hr the clutch on the bike is disengaged with my left hand while my throttle hand holds the camera off to the side and my index finger frantically pulses the button in hope of finding this monster in that little squared window. Not bad eh!!!

What a reward this has been to be riding amongst this amazing creatures.These buffalo were part of a herd who were grazing along the Alaska Highway in Northern British Columbia near the Yukon border.

Welcome to the Yukon – It great to be here!!!

The sign post forest was started in 1942 by a homesick U.S. Army G.I. working on the Alaska Highway. He erected a sign here pointing the way and stating the mileage to his hometown. Others followed his lead and are still doing so to this day. I found a sign from the Village of St. Hilaire, New Brunswick / near Edundston.

This historic vessel has been restored by Parks Canada. It now sits on the banks of the Yukon River at Whitehorse.

As far as offices go they don't get any better then this one remotely located on the banks of the majestic Yukon River between Whitehorse and Dawson City. I enjoyed a very nice visit with Heinz of “Big River Enterprises” and co-worker Ted the photographer

Dredge No. 4 is a wooden hulled gold dredge that operated in the Klondike River watershed in Yukon Territory between 1912 and 1959.

I was extremely excited to have reach the Artic Circle – A major accomplishment it was and something I had dreamed about doing for sometime.

This Northwest Territories boundry is located 20 KM north of the Artic Circle. From here 320 KM of hard riding will get you to the Inuit community of Inuvik.

For Bragging Rights only