Puerto Vallarta y Melaque

A very pleasant visit I had during our twelve day stay in Puerto Vallarta with brother Ray and Joyce. This city is a large resort destination and over the months of January, February and March millions of Norte Americanos will flock to this region to enjoy the beaches, browse in the numerous shops, dine in the many of good restaurants and wander the picturesque cobblestone streets throughout the city's zona centro / central zone. While in Puerto Vallarta this saddle tramp would made the transition from traveler to tourist. During this period I would simply sit-back and enjoy the company of family, bask in the warmth of summer, walk the beaches - the malecon (sea wall) – cobblestone streets and indulge in the great Mexican food and quality beers.

While in Puerto Vallarta I experienced an interesting encounter on a crowded bus one evening. As I chatted with the lady who sat next to me I learned that she was from Fredericton, NB and that she and her husband were very good friends of my very good friends Lloyd and Murielle. Joan and her friend Judy were in this area for a three week holiday. A pleasant encounter this was.

On February 20^th we checked out of our hotel in Puerto Vallarta. Brother Ray and Joyce prepared to return to Ottawa and I set out in a southerly direction. On this day I would ride to the town of Melaque a small kick-back beach community. This town has become a hang-out for a large number of Canadians who flock to the area for the winter months. It is a great place to meet plenty of people as everyone is very laid-back and easy going. Living in this environment is very easy - An existence here is extremely simple yet the days pass quickly and one is never bored. It is always difficult to load up the motorcycle and ride away from these comfortable surroundings but go I must. On March 1^st I once again bid farewell to my friends and hit the open road.

A highlight of my visit to Melaque was a day tour I joined with 5 other Norte Americanos. We were transported to a remote area where a large coral reef was easily accessed from the beach. Over a two hours period we would snorkel above this reef. This region provided an extensive variety of colorful tropical fish - there for our viewing pleasure – much like swimming in a fish bowl. It was exciting to swim amongst these creatures yet it was somewhat intimidating to be amongst moray eels and sting rays. Following our swim we left this area and moved to another beach which was known for its large waves. Here we were provided with a crash course in the art of riding a boogie board. Unlike surfing this skill is a relatively easy to develop. As surfing requires the rider to stand erect on the board while riding the wave. A boogie board rider's upper body lies directly on the board as the wave carries them to shore. A most enjoyable day we experienced however I remained far to long in the hot sun without ample sunscreen and consequently got burned. Upon my return to the hotel I was provided with some quality lotions a number of ladies had with them which provided quick relief.

The month of February has brought another birthday to this saddle tramp. Over the past three year I have celebrated birthdays in New Zealand, Vancouver and Mexico. Life has been very kind to Jimbo.

I was saddened to receive an e-mail from my buddy Paul who informed me that Bill a fellow Canadian had been killed in a car crash while traveling in Mexico. I had first met Bill and his spouse Lea in San Carlos and later again in Rincon de Guayabitos. It isn't my intent to appear morbid with this comment but it is important for me to make this clear. I fully understand that motorcycle travel in any region comes with risk. If it is my misfortune that my end come to me this way - so be it. It has been an amazing journey.

Toys of the rich - This vessel was tied-up at the Puerto Vallarta Marina.

The view from the 9^th floor balcony of our Puerto Vallarta hotel room.

We traveled by jeep from Puerto Vallarta to the mountain village of San Sebastian where this lady operated a fonda / a small eating establishment with a very limited selection of traditional Mexican food. Here we were provided with a very tasty afternoon meal.

An in-shore fishery – this technique yielded very little fish during the time I observed this operation.

Sand – shade – palapa's and palm trees – a typical beach setting.

Mexico's tropical trees.

The many colors of Mexican pottery.

Mexico is a place of many bright colors.

Creatures of the sea - located in Bara de Navidad.

What's for dinner?

Paintings for sale – This artist has successfully captured a number of Mexico's images.

Passenger travel in the boxes of trucks is a common occurrence in Mexico.

A scene from small town Mexico.

A scene from small town Mexico.

An inner city bus. Bus service in most Mexican communities is relatively good. Although buses are normally crowded and typically without suspension making for a rough ride.

A scene from small town Mexico.

T-shirts for sale with images of heroes from Latin America's past.

A scene from small town Mexico.

A scene from small town Mexico.

A scene from small town Mexico. Note the absence of footwear

These crocodiles are in their natural environment. A fence keeps them away from nearby homes. A warning at the Boca de Iguanas RV park warns campers to keep an eye on dogs since crocodiles inhabit the swamp behind the camping area. That was ample warning for me not to consider camping at this site.

Estados de Jalisco y Nayarit

I remained in Ricon de Guayabitos for a period of 12 pleasurable days. This town was originally developed as a tourist community for the Mexican population. However during the months of January, February and March a large influx of Canadians arrive at this beach resort community. Most of the hotel are at the lower end of the scale which makes them relatively inexpensive / affordable for extended stays. The community has an attractive beach which is rarely crowded. There are a number of inexpensive restaurants which serve good food. Many beach-side bars sell happy-hour beer for less then one dollar a bottle. The tourist are friendly and it is very easy to meet people. After a stroll on the beach one afternoon. I stopped at a bar for a beer. Sitting at one of the tables was a couple I thought I recognized. I approached them and stated “are you from Fredericton”? I had meet Bob and Rita a number of years ago – friends of a friend. They are now both retired and live in Fredericton except for two months when they visit this region to enjoy the summer like weather of Rincon de Guayabitos. A very nice visit we had.

Over coffee one morning at a small cafe where great coffee is served. I met Jim from Vermilion BC . Jim has been a regular to this area for a number of winters and is very familiar with the region's geography. Once he learn I was here with a motorcycle he enthusiastically talked about a great ride into the mountains to the village of Mazatan which is approximately 2 hours east of here. The following morning I topped-up my fuel supply and set-off riding along highway 200 towards the community of Compostela. This road took the rider up through the mountains via a series of steep climbs, switch-backs and tight turns. The view along this route was specular as I rode through the mountains covered in lush green forest. I rode into Compostela a very congested community of 16,000. The narrow cobblestones and dirt streets were very crowded with mid-morning pedestrian and vehicle traffic. As the traffic slowly moved along I continued to scanned the area looking for signage which would lead me out of this town and to the road to the village of Mazatan. I located a place to park the bike. As I was studying the map an individual approached me. With a simple “Buenos dia Senor - Por aqui se va a Mazatan?” / “good morning is Mazatan this way” I asked as I pointed in the direction I was heading. “Si” he stated and proceeded to provided directions in Spanish c/w hand signals. I understood none of the Spanish but from the hand signals I understood I was to continue in the same direction keep right and up a hill and onward. “Gracias Senor” and off I rode. This route would lead me out of Compostela and onto State road Nay 4. Within 10 kilometers I spotted the sign to Mazatan and turned off onto a dirt road. For the next 25 kilometers this dirt road would provide a great setting for some spectacular mountain and valley views combined with an added touch of adventure. I encountered an number of vehicles heading in the opposite direction the occupants waved and looked with interest as I rode-by. As I entered the village I continued riding onward towards it's center. Judging by the reaction of the locals I assumed there had been very few foreign visitors riding motorcycles here before me. I reached the community square turned and retraced my path. I reluctant refrained from taking photo's within the community - I felt as if I were intruding. I smiled and waving to the curious onlookers as I rode-by. On the outskirts of the village I spotted a tree which was in total blossom. Resting in it's shade stood a burro. I stopped the bike to take a photo. Just as I was ready to take the pic a little girl came to the edge of the road to determine what I was doing. Once she seen me she quickly run back to join the other children who were playing near their house. Fortunately I was able to capture the child in the photo. This pic happens to be one of my favorite to date.

On February 2nd I rode out of the town of Rincon de Guayabitos along highway 200 over the Sierra Madre mountains and located highway 15 east. This days ride would take me through a number of valley communities including the city of Tequila famous it's distilleries of the potent concoction of the same name. Guadalajara is Mexico's second largest city of four million residents. This is where I would terminate my days ride. I located an RV park on the outskirts of town and set up camp. At this park I met Ron and Beverly who are long term occupants of the park. Ron provided maps and information regarding the used of the public bus and the rail system into the inner city. The following morning I prepared to make my way downtown. Before I left the park I met George and Shirley who were also heading to that area. Darrell another longtime park resident from BC was acting as their guide and I was invited to join them. A very pleasant tour we had of this Atemajac valley city which was first settled in 1542. This community has a very impressive historic district know as Centro Historico which is outstanding due to it's fine architecture, hospitality, rich traditions.

After a two day visit to this historic city it was once again time to ride on. On Febrero 5th Dia de la Constitucion / Feb. 05 Constitution Day a National Holiday I selected a ride through a number of secondary roads. A very interesting ride this day would provide. I rode south from Guadalajara and then east to the city of Tlajomulco. As I exited this city I approached a security check point which was staffed with a dozen or more heavily armed police officers with automatic rifles. With a hand signal I was instructed to pull over. Two of the officers approached and began to speak to me in Spanish. With my standard reply I stated “pardon no entiendo” / I don't understand. He continued to speak and using hand signals I understood he was asking if I had fire arms. “Oh no” I replied. With more Spanish questioning I understood drugs – “Oh no drugs” I replied. He continued to interagate me but it wasn't working - I didn't understand any of his questions – he appeared to become frustrated and I thought he's going to have me unload my boxes. Fortunately a more senior officer who spoke limited English came to our aid. I was instructed to undo my riding jacket and I was frisked along my chest, back and legs - my pockets were then checked. With a few simple questions and after he reviewed the map I had attached to the handle bars complete with the list of communities I proposed to ride through on this day I was allowed to proceed. I did not feel threatened at any time during this process but I was happy to move on. From the check point I rode into the town of San Miguel de Cuyutlan. This small community appeared to be in the festive mood as banners were hung above the cobblestones streets. As I exited the town I encountered 3 men on horses - waves and smiles were exchanged. I continued on a very narrow cobblestones road which occasionally reverted to dirt. For the next 30 KM the road continued south along the shore of Laguna Cajititan through an area of pasture and farmland. There was very little traffic other then the occasional 4x4 truck and more men on horses tending to their cattle. I once again assumed that there had been very few who had selected this path as a touring route – this is the real Mexico and it's great to be here. I continued eastward where I crossed highway 44 - a north / south route between Guadalajara and Chapala. I located highway 35 and rode through the communities of Atequiza, Atotoniquillo and Poncitlan. My plan was to then ride south to San Pedro de Itzican which is on the northern shore of Luguna (lake) de Chapala. I could not locate the turn off so I stopped in an area with a small strip mall. As I reviewed my map I was approached by Daniel- an individual who operated a small business nearby. With my map in hand I indicated where I want to go. Daniel proceeded to provided directions in Spanish - none of which I understood. Soon there was gathering around the bike – everyone try to help. Someone was sent to the Farmacia / pharmacy to get someone who spoke English. Soon with the help of a translator I was provided with the information I required. There was much interest in the bike and my journey. Daniel noted I did not have a Mexican flag displayed on my luggage boxes and asked if I like one. “Absolutely” - I responded. Off he went to his shop where he fabricates reflective decals and soon returned with a flag of Mexico which he placed on my luggage box. I shook his hand stating “I was grateful for this gift and would be proud to display this flag”. A very nice token this was – and this came about from a chance encounter on this Febrero 5th Dia de la Constitucion / Constitution Day. These are the kind of encounters which add to the rewards of travel.

I then rode-off to find the rural route which follows the north shore of Laguna Chapala / Lake Chapala. This body of water is Mexico's largest natural lake. The water source from this lake is utilized to provide the domestic water requirements for Mexico City and Guadalajara – a combined population of over 22 million. A very picturesque ride this road provided through the small communities of San Pedro Itzican, San Jaun Tecomatlan and Santa Cruz de la Soledad. I arrived in the town of Chapala (pop 20,000) to find it's streets crowded with people out-and-about enjoying the festive actives of this Dia de la Constitucion. This community of Chapala is said to have a near perfect climate which has attracted what is probably the largest US and Canadian expat population around. After a brief visit in Centro area - I rode onto the town of Jocotepec where I located an RV park and camped for the night.

From Jocotepec I would ride in a south-westerly direction along highway 80 through the Sierra Madre Mountains. Another very scenic mountainous ride this route provided to the coastal communities of San Patricio- Melaque. As I rode down from the mountains and approached sea level I noticed a substantial increase in temperature. Soon the ambient temperature increased to 32C. Riding in these temperatures while totally enclosed from head-to-toe in riding-gear the motorcyclist most be conscience of the danger of heat exhaustion. Regular stops to find shade and to drink water are required. It felt good to arrive in the village of Melaque and find relief from the heat. I located the Hotel Bahia and booked a room for two night. In this establishment I found a large number of very friendly Canadian and US visitors. A very pleasant visit I had - having met and enjoyed the company of a number of very interesting individuals.

On the morning of February 8th I bid farewell to my friends at the Hotel Bahia and rode north along the coastal highway 200. This highway would take me to the resort city of Puerto Vallarta (pop 151,000). In this city I would meet-up with my brother Ray and spouse Joyce who have arrived from Ottawa. For the next two weeks we would share a very comfortable suite in a five-star hotel - Even a saddle-tramp must be pampered occasionally. A very pleasant visit we are enjoying.

Venders working the beach at Rincon de Guayabitos.

A cobblestone street in the town of La Penita.

High in the mountains on my way to Mazatan.

One of my favorite photo's – The little girl from Mazatan.

Down the dirt road through the valley to Mazatan.

More of the Sierra Madre mountain.

It is not unusual to find shrines with religious artifacts along Mexico's highways. This one was located in the mountains far from any community.

One of the many uncrowded beaches along the Pacific coast. This one is in the village of Melaque.

The Teatro Degollado a Guadalajara city land mark is impressive and beautiful it was open in 1866.

This is one of Guadalajara cathedrals it's construction was started in 1561 and is surround by four lovely plazas

The interior of a Guadalajara cathedral.

Strolling along the shops of downtown Guadalajara.

Daniel and son. Daniel gave me a Mexican flag which he installed on my luggage box

The root of all Tequila. The root from this cactus the "Agave Azul" is utilized in the Tequila processing. It grows readily in the Atemajac valley.

The Sierra Madre mountain provide some awesome riding and spectacular views.

Down a dirt road off highway 200 near Barra de Navidad to more spectacular views.